Hello,

Can you guys take a look at my jib sheet system and give me some advice on how to properly rig it. Right now it is hooked up and working fine but without the jib travelers. Ive done some research on how to properly rig these systems but I cannot find anything on my particular system.

Also I am planning on buying some new lines for this system. Can you suggest the lengths and widths for the jib sheet and traveler lines.

Here are the photos of my system.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BsyMUx5L6qsasAg2htmptQ?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QWAPFmsSIApFLVbljWiTRw?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HnxNn0iFA4Y4L4bnRLRrdQ?feat=directlink

Thanks!

Jib Sheets: Run the jib sheet from the car tie off point to the jib and then back to the car and through the cleat... across to the opposite car and the out through the jaws, jib, back to the car to tie off.

The inboard swivel cleats are for a traveler system. Tie a line to the car (adjuster pin held up)... out to the cheek block on the corner casting and back to the swivel cleat. Do this for both sides. Add 1/4" diameter bungee to pull the cars to center. Pull on the traveler line to pull the car outboard... let go and the bungee pulls it back in.

Thanks Matt I'll give this a try.

As for the size of lines to use, 5/16" x 32' for the jibsheet, correct? What about the sizes for the jib traveler lines?

Yep... 32' of 5/6" line is good. New boats are using 1/4".

...and 3/16 or 1/4" for the travelers x 11 feet each. I'd use 2 bungees run from each car to the opposite side / end of the striker rod to tie off. You can use a single piece between the two cars, but you then can not travel both at the same time. The bungees are about 5 feet each as I recall.

Matt, some further clarification for a newbie, if you please. My 85 H16, appears to have a similar jib traveler system. It is depicted as follows.


Seems like the line is run correctly to pull the jib sheet car to the outside position. Seems I need a bungee to pull it back to the inside position, yes? Well assuming that is correct (no doubt a stretch), I believe you suggest a bungee tied to the car and attached to the dolphin striker?

Do I tie the two bungees (one for each car as you suggest) to the dolphin striker itself or is it best to place some time of cleat or such on the crossbar, in front of the mast, above the striker, to tie off the bungees?
Also, how does the bungee return overcome the fact that there is that spring loaded thingy on the jib sheet car, that locks it into the track when it travels to one of the holes/slots in the bottom of the track? Is there some way to lock the thingy up? Please forgive the escoteric nautical terms

Thanks very much for your time.

When you tie your traveler control line to the car, pull up on the "spring loaded thingy" and tie the line tight around the shaft of it. This will prevent it from going back down and locking in the track.

The line you're using in the picture looks a little too large and frayed. I would recommend getting a smaller line (3/16" - 1/4") to replace your old frayed line.

ScotsSailor

The cheek blocks and that blue line were added to your boat. I have an '85 and the traveler is adjusted by pulling up the plunger on the latch and putting it where you want it. You are right that you have to unlatch the traveler to be able to move it with the added line system. I personally would remove the blue line and use the traveler system as originally designed. I have been using mine that way for 25 years.

As kswis001 said, ditch the hog ring and tie the line tightly around the thumbscrew...that'll hold it up. Tie shock cord (bungie) to the traveller car and to the dolphin striker rod (not post) where it goes through the corner casting on the opposite side (x2).

Unless I'm missing something, you can't rig it exactly as mmiller wrote, because your cars have only a pulley (no cleat). Therefore, you have to use the swivel cleats for the jib sheet (not the traveller). When you're ready to upgrade, get some nice new low-profile cars with the cleats included, and run the sheet through them. Then you can ditch the lance cleats and run the travellers through the swivel ceats. This system is sweet and well worth the cash/effort. Particularly if you sail solo a lot, a good, remote jib traveller system is extremely convenient (and safer IMO than having to crawl forward and leeward all the time to make adjustments).

This is his system properly set up:

Got it. Thanks for the detailed responses, one and all. Great forum!

rattle n' hum

Just to understand you. Under the system you describe, with lo-profile blocks with built in cleats, to run the jib sheet through, you then use the swivel cleats currently used for the jib sheet to now control the traveler, correct? At that point, do you set the bungees up to pull the traveler out, as opposed to in, or do you still use that little pully/block thingy on the corner of the tramp frame and route the traveler line from the swivel cleat through it, to the traveler?

This is similar to the current Hobie system:



The shock cord is used to pull the cars inboard. When under load from the sheets, they pull towards the center, so the line and cleat are needed to hold them outboard in the track.

Thanks very much Matt. Looks like a nice clean setup, incorporating the functionality lauded by others. No surprise.

Much appreciate your timely responses to my newbie questions. I will try to work on my nomenclature.

Here is the detail of the current jib traveler parts. We use a small Ronstan cleat with fairleads:





Screws for mounting the cleats are (4) #8030241 SCREW 10-32x1-1/2 FHMSP

Traveler lines are (2) 3/16" x 11' You need lines long enough to run from the car to the cheek block and back to the cleat... then across the tramp to the far shroud. We cut these short so you can't adjust from the trap. Harder to wrap around someone if the boat flips.

Thanks Matt.