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Trailering the Hobie 16
http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2837
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Author:  jpsdrs [ Fri Dec 30, 2005 10:01 am ]
Post subject:  Trailering the Hobie 16

I picked up a 1989 Hobie 16 but all the rigging was removed. I am wondering how much of the rigging you can leave on the Hobie when trailering (standing and running), and how to store it on the Hobie when trailering.

Thanks,

John

Author:  rk04 [ Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:22 am ]
Post subject: 

When trailering mine, I left all of the rigging on the boat. I attatch the jib clew blocks to the forestay bridle and tighten it up with the jib sheet. As for the standing, I coil the trappeze lines and shrouds (2 in each coil) together, wiretie them, then tie the coil down to middle lacing of the tramp to keep it from flying all around.

Author:  xanderwess [ Fri Dec 30, 2005 12:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

Alot of people use those saddlebags that go over the mast and coil up the sides and forestay and stick them in there. I think saltydog has them pretty cheap.

Author:  jpsdrs [ Fri Dec 30, 2005 12:46 pm ]
Post subject: 

So basically, everything but the main and the jib can stay on the boat when it is being trailered. Also, I received 4 trapeze lines, are they usually all 4 connected when sailing (2 on each side)?

Thanks for your responses,

John

Author:  xanderwess [ Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:02 pm ]
Post subject: 

Yep. Just un hook the shock cord and roll them up too and tie them down on the tramp or stick them in saddlebags.
PS You still looking for a mast?

Author:  jpsdrs [ Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:20 pm ]
Post subject: 

Well, I did find someone with a comptip for $100.00. I haven't purchased it yet though. I thought I would wait until I can get a closer look at the mast and make sure there isn't anything else wrong with it. Also, I believe I will need a new luff track since where the mast meets the comptip the luff track is all bent up. Is it easy to just replace the luff track that is bent or do you have to replace the whole thing?

Author:  xanderwess [ Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:30 pm ]
Post subject: 

I don't know.
If you want the mast we have, which is real nice, $175 if you can pick it up. We're pretty close, 45 min south of Cabela's.
cw

Author:  jpsdrs [ Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:33 pm ]
Post subject: 

OK, I'll keep that in mind. Thanks again.

Author:  John Eaton [ Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:44 pm ]
Post subject: 

John,

Here's the info on luff track replacement from the FAQ section of this forum.

Luff Track removal and installation instructions

http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/38584001.pdf
_________________
Matt Miller
Hobie Cat USA

In regards to trailering, we leave all the wires, trap included, (like Chris said undo the bungees under the tramp) attached to the mast tang. When the mast is down, pull the step pin and walk the mast forward, set the mast on the trailer support, tie off the forestay around the base of the mast using the jib halyard and any cleat. Pull all the shrouds and trapeze wires up towards the front (towards the base) until the shrouds are taught and lash right to the mast with a few short bungees or rope. Coil up the excess trap wires and tie to the hiking straps on the tramp. Secure the mast to the trailer support and at the rear crossbar with your throwable cushion underneath it for protection. Put your sails, boom, block/sheet and hiking stick in the sail bag and tie caddy corner across the tramp, and per rk04 attach the jib clew to the bridle/forestay chain plate and tighten your jib sheet. Tie the jib sheet tail to the hiking strap.
Cool thing is you don't really need a lot of extra stuff to "sustain life" with a 16, but things like a sail tube and box on the trailer are nice.

Author:  DavidBell47 [ Sun Jan 01, 2006 2:24 am ]
Post subject:  Anyone try a Mast cover ?

John,
I use a mast cover. First, I bungee (small 6 inch bunbees) all the standing rigging (including halyards/downhauls) to the mast after disconnecting them and taking the mast down. I leave the bridle on the boat. Then I put on the mast cover which keeps everything nice and neat before placing it onto the mast support. Everything continues to be nice and neat until I need to step the mast again. Remember, there's an operative word that exist in the sailing community and that word is "system. The afforementioned is the system I use. My recommendation to you is to use whatever system works best for you.

David

Author:  RJ Messier [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 2:47 pm ]
Post subject:  trailering

ALSO , THink about trailiering the boat Correctly, I know I am going to get a lot of laughs for this but, trailer the boat Sterns (rudders) first. Then Place the Back post over the front rollers of the trailer gives the best togue weight, There is a reason, When it comes time to put up the mast, leave the trailer attached to the car, Roll the boat off half way till the back post are over the back rollers. Then a single person acon walk up the mast, and place the bridle pin all by their lonesome, I use to do this when I was 15 years old. it works great, but a lot of people will stare and ask why you tow your boad backwards>>

Author:  Hobie One Kenobi [ Thu Mar 02, 2006 5:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

I found the best tie downs for hulls, wires, sandals, everything!

http://nrsweb.com/shop/product_list.asp?deptid=1188

They are far superior to bungee chords
-Kirk

Author:  Hobie Nick [ Fri Mar 03, 2006 6:51 am ]
Post subject: 

Look for motorcycle tie downs at Wal-Mart, Home Depot, or Lowes. They are the same thing. You can get ratcheting tie downs for the hulls and the friction locks like in the above post. Plus you can get a package of 4 for less than $20 in the stores.

Author:  buzzman2 [ Fri Mar 03, 2006 8:16 am ]
Post subject: 

You get what you pay for with tie downs. A good pair will last more than twice as long as a cheap pair. The cheap ones get loose. I know the application is a little different, but I had a cheap one fail without warning with a motorcycle in the back of a pick up and it was only a two hundred pound bike.

Author:  John Eaton [ Fri Mar 03, 2006 9:11 am ]
Post subject: 

Thought this to be a good rule of thumb,

Check the straps' tension at 1 mile, 10 miles and 100 miles, and then every 100 miles after. From personal experience, straps that were wet when put on will loosen after the blow dry.

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