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 Post subject: Tightening your tramp?
PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 1:41 pm 
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Hi I was just wondering if you guys had any advice as to how to go about tightening your tramp. Mine has gotten fairly loose after a while and it seems it is time to tighten it down, just not quite sure how to go about it.

All advice would be helpful.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:24 pm 
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Location: Tri-Cities, WA
I had a second set of grommets added to the centerline and laced it independently of factory set. Then alternated tightening between them two to three times from below the tramp. I got a good tight tramp without fear of pulling out a grommet and the added safety factor of double cordage. :wink:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 1:32 pm 
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Location: Clear Lake Iowa
Hobie has a tramp tightening tool that is pretty awesome, you pretty much have to tighten the thing a couple times a season unless you use really high quality rope. Otherwise, plan on doing it a few times a year.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 3:18 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
We don't have a tramp tightening tool anymore, but the keys are...

New line. Old line gets stiff and is hard to tension with the kinks set in the line at each grommet turn. Then second...

Using the main sheet blocks to bend the sidebars in during lacing. It's quick and it's easy. Especially when rigging 60 boats at a time.

Quote:
Better than that...

On a 14 or 16 you can "pre-bend" the sidebars before tensioning the center lace. We do not use double grommets down the center and get tight tramps without a huge effort.

Image

Use the mainsheet system. Lay the blocks and line on the tramp "unsheeted" from side to side bar... in the center. Add a line to the base of the blocks that can reach around the sidebar, under the tramp and meet the top block. Tie off. Pad the side bars with some cardboard where the line goes around the sidebars. Sheet the system to bend the sidebars in by over 1". We sheet till the tramp gets a little pucker shape along the sidebar. Cleat the blocks and tighten the tramp using moderate tension. Using the vise grips, dowell or just holding the line at each grommet as you go. Tension the aft lace last and then release the block set.

We use this system and get over 1-2 inches of prebend in the bars for over 1 inch after releasing.

Worst loads on a grommet are during tensioning each one... this saves effort and grommets.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:18 pm 
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Location: Lindale, Texas
You can use a wooden dowel with one end whittled down to a taper. Use pliers to pull the line tight beginning at the first grommet. Jam the dowel in the grommet to hold the tension on the line then move to the next grommet and pull line with pliers Remove the dowel and jam into the next grommet. Alternate sides and continue to the end. Actually, I think I used a pair of vise grips to clamp down on the line at the grommet and hold the tension.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:23 pm 
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Much appreciated! I will try this as soon as I can. Will post again on how it goes.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:50 pm 
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Location: Boston Ma / Newport RI
If you use 2-3 dowels and a pair of old gloves, you don't even need vice grips. Just put some tension on the line, leap frog the dowels and keep adding tension. I didnt even pretension the side bars and I got nice 1 1/2" bend in the side rail.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:14 am 
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Location: milwaukee,wi
i use thesehttp://s599.photobucket.com/albums/tt73/sepress/hobie%2018/
this series of pics is showing tearing the boat down this fall but, once laced up in the spring you can see that a "hand over hand" "leap frog" action can tighten quite effectively. all from the ground at the back of the boat

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 6:53 pm 
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I just always did it with my hands. You have many times the mechanical advantage against a line perpendicular to it's lengh, much like pulling up a halyard on a big boat. Run the line through all the grommets. Starting at the front hold the line as it comes out of the second right tramp grommet with your left hand, and pull with your right perpendicular to the line as it goes from the first on the right back to the next one on the left. Quickly take up the slack with your left hand as you ease off the tension with your right. Do the same all the way back. It's much quicker than using a tool.

You have to be careful on the back that you don't put too much tension on one side first, so it's better to make two quick passes across the back.

This method probably doesn't work too well if you have soft hands.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:40 pm 
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Location: Panama City Beach, FL
I made a 10" wide by 12" tall Tee out of 1 1/2" PVC pipe and a 1 1/2" socket Tee with a slot cut across the base of the tee. I place the slotted part of this tool on the tramp line near one end and then twist the tee handle to put tension on the line and then clamp the line/grommet with a vise grip. I then move the tee and tighten the next section before moving the vice grip. One person can easily do this for the whole tramp.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 7:19 am 
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Location: Saskatoon , Sk
We have heard that Kegals work wonders to tighten a loose tramp.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 7:41 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake Kansas
I've done this every way imaginable and come to the conclusion that if you pre-bend the side rails with the main sheet, you can sufficiently tighten the lacing with your hands...works like a charm.
No need to fool with dowels and vice grips, or other giz-willies, as the difference will be minimal
(save those specialty tools for boats other than the 14 and 16).
Doing this with the boat off the trailer and on the grass is very helpful.
Also, will only take about half the time with two people :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 4:51 pm 
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Tallguy1 wrote:
If you use 2-3 dowels and a pair of old gloves, you don't even need vice grips. Just put some tension on the line, leap frog the dowels and keep adding tension. I didnt even pretension the side bars and I got nice 1 1/2" bend in the side rail.


This has worked same for me for decades. If using shock cord (Ido), vice grips can damage the sheathing.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 6:34 pm 
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Location: Clinton Lake Kansas
TexKat wrote:
Tallguy1 wrote:
If you use 2-3 dowels and a pair of old gloves, you don't even need vice grips. Just put some tension on the line, leap frog the dowels and keep adding tension. I didnt even pretension the side bars and I got nice 1 1/2" bend in the side rail.


This has worked same for me for decades. If using shock cord (Ido), vice grips can damage the sheathing.
and what I'm saying is by pre-bending the rails, all you're doing is taking the slack out of the line, much less energy spent. First time you do it this way, when releasing the main sheet, you'd expect the rails to move out a 1/2" or more...but they don't.
Exception being using shock cord. I've only cut shock cord off an old tramp, never put new on.

An alternative to using the main sheet is a ratcheting trailer tie down strap.

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