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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 1:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2011 2:31 pm
Posts: 27
Location: SW Minnesota
I got out for the first time this weekend with my local fleet after installing the pylon sleeves this winter. What a difference. The boat is like new again. Others are already asking me where they can get them. Please add them to your catalogue. There are a lot of old boats out there that may get a second chance at life with this part. My boat literally went from a 3 foot lift of one hull before the other would come up to about 6 inches it is amazing. If more people knew about this part I’m sure they would be in greater demand.

Thank You for all the help I received here this winter and a happy Hobie season to all.
:mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
We ordered a few more from Hobie Cat France. The price went through the roof though. More than 3 or 4 times the cost since the last order, so these will be pricey. Like $50 each now.

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Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 5:13 pm 
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Location: SW Minnesota
Although the price is higher it really only takes 2 to get all 4 pylons done and with the only other option to fix loose hulls being to glue the frame together it would still be worth it. I live in a cold climate and disassemble the boat mostly for the winter so epoxy just won’t work for me and I’m sure I'm not the only one with this issue. I still think giving it a PN would help others to know their options for rehabbing an old boat.

Capt. Stu :D


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 9:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:37 pm
Posts: 152
Location: Sechelt, BC, Canada... Sunshine Coast
got a pic???

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1980 •Hobie 16- Karumba sails - soft hulls now a Row-B-Cat1983 Hobie 16 Tsunami sails - blue hulls-Sold •Present boat -1998 Hobie 16 Solana Sails furling jib
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 12:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2011 2:31 pm
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Location: SW Minnesota
I have a bunch of the entire process. I dont know how to load them here though so I'll try and e-mail them to you soon.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 10:08 pm
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
Seems to me that back in the day we used to use an aluminum sheet from a cola can wrapped around the pylon and then the corner casting pushed down over it with a rubber mallet. Punch a hole through the aluminum when every thing's in place and bolt 'er up.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 3:09 am 
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I just glued my 84 together last week with left over west system i just had laying around. The difference is night and day! The hulls follow each other inch for inch now when pressing up or down on the front of the hulls while the hobie is sitting flat on ground.

I wish I would have known about sleeves because if this hobie ever comes apart again it will require a lot of torching and probably not be worth it!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 6:40 am 
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
Well ... not so much. I used to bond my boats together when they were reassembled each spring. They were stiff as ... well never mind that analogy, until a few sailing days later there was a huge "Crack!" and it sounded like something broke. The epoxy cracked and the boat was a touch looser, but still better than without the epoxy shim in there. Came apart OK too. I think you're OK.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:02 am 
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Yeah that is true, there is a lot more room for margin of error with the glueing method as well. If you don't properly thicken the mixture and do immaculate prep work, like glue over the anodizing or skip using an etching kit/primer, then it will certainly "craaaack" the first time out or shortly there after.

These sleeves don't really have that problem. I know what I was adding west system filler to the pylons, they were very hard to get glued uniformly in all sides since they have to be slid together. I had to drill a few TINY holes and actually inject epoxy to fill some gaps that form as a result of the angle at which the two pieces slide together, scraping all the epoxy off the pylon then leaving a big gap once seated. Not to mention taking all the stupid measurements and using the mainsheet and blocks to get the boat to square up after all that goop was in the way, before it dried (thank god for slow hardener).

It was a lot of work and I really wish I just had these sleeves and a nice tight tramp instead of all the work I put into doing it right.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:19 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
You know ... keep prodding me and I remember stuff. You were talking about jigging the boat up square and level before the epoxy set. I remember doing that. And drilling out all the 3/16" rivets and replacing them with 1/4" rivets. Another "speed secret" from the old days. That and tapering battens. Nobody does that anymore. They just buy a new boat, apparently.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 1:58 pm 
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Location: SW Minnesota
I like the sleeves they may not be as tight at epoxy but they are also not permanent.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 1:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:15 am
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Location: Saint John, NB Canada sailing on Washademoak Lake
Capt. Stu wrote:
I like the sleeves they may not be as tight at epoxy but they are also not permanent.

Like a condom.

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1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 8:45 pm
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Location: Saskatoon, Sk. Canada
Nothing in life is permanent, same with a glued together hobie, nothing a little heat and a sand filled plastic malet won't fix.

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06 getaway -- always remember, man with both feet in mouth have no leg to stand on.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 3:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 10:08 pm
Posts: 139
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent. - Porky Pine (Walt Kelly)


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 3:26 pm 
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Location: Washington DC/Chesapeake Bay
Hey BigWhoop, cudos for the "speed secrets" to replace the 3/16" rivets with 1/4" and tapering the battens. Speaking of which, exactly how do you taper the battens?

Some of the older battens that came with my '81 are flat from one end to the other, obviously done by sanding. Others are flat only from the ends towards the center but not all the way across. What's throwing me is the taper vice flattening.

I have similarly "flattened" battens that I've replaced with a sander but I'm not sure how to taper them accurately and consistently if you mean thin at the ends and thicker in the middle.

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