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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 11:24 pm 
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Any recommendations for a quick-disconnect hardware solution used to fasten main sail blocks to traveller and boom, jib to forestay, and main sail down haul? I lost a few pieces yesterday while setting up. There's got to be somethng better than a clevis pin with a cotter ring. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 1:15 am 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
I'm planning on employing a few of these in different sizes.

https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_item ... lutePage=1

Captive pin so there's nothing to drop in the sand or the gutter!

Lots of different styles so there should be one for pretty much anywhere that needs to come apart regularly.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 3:32 am 
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Location: Saint John, NB Canada sailing on Washademoak Lake
For jib to forestay, I use this and leave it on the jib:
Image

For uppper main sheet block to boom:
Image

For the main downhaul, I just keep the piece of line attached to the boom with a bowline and never remove it, but any type of quick clip/snap would work like this:
Image


For the jib sheet blocks, I use a carabiner/snap clip:
Image

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 5:05 am 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
56kz2slow wrote:
For jib to forestay, I use this and leave it on the jib:
Image


That's exactly the same shackle I use. Couldn't find a pic of it anywhere!

They're great! Such a time (and finger-tip) saver.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 6:56 am 
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Location: Harsens Island, Michigan
Has anyone used these quick links? They are cheap, and if it comes somehow unscrewed it still doesn't disconnect under tension. They offer stainless steel versions for about $4.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware ... ogId=10053

anyone have a strong feeling about stainless steel versus galvanized?

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1979 Hobie 16 "Orange Crusher"
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:00 am 
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Location: Saint John, NB Canada sailing on Washademoak Lake
I have used those in a stainless steel version. I find they work, but once in a while, need pliers to get them undone after use.

I have a couple in my parts box I keep on board. They can be useful if something fails.

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1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:44 am 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
snap clip for the jib sheet... on my shopping list for this weekend. I was using a "screw in" shackle and was over concerned about dropping it in the water. I was using the same for the jib to the forestay. I'll have to dig through my box of goodies to see if I have an extra 1/4 turn shackle to replace that one.

Since we are giving up secrets.... is there a trick to keeping the jib under control when your putting it up. As I'm screwing around hooking up the halyard, forestay, and blocks it always ends up in the water.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:55 am 
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Location: Southern California
I have bought snap shacles from this site - use them from forstay to bridle and block to boom connections.

http://www.marinepartdepot.com/shackle.html

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1983 Hobie 16 Hawiian Sunset (sold)
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2008 Hobie 16 (currently sailing the crap out of this boat)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 8:19 am 
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Location: Saint John, NB Canada sailing on Washademoak Lake
reelknotty wrote:
Since we are giving up secrets.... is there a trick to keeping the jib under control when your putting it up. As I'm screwing around hooking up the halyard, forestay, and blocks it always ends up in the water.

This is how I do it:
- keep jib rolled in my arms
- hook up halyard to head
- hook plastic clip to forestay
- start hoisting the jib while letting it unroll from my other arm
- when it's a bit more than half way up, I unroll the rest and hook tack to the forestay
- finish hoisting while watching not to get hit in the head by the clew plate
- make sure jib sheet is not cleated
- hook up the blocks to the clew when ready to go

The windier it is, the harder it is. It slipped out of my arms once and started flying horizontally only holding by the halyard. Luckily it was just a gust and it came right back down.

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1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 8:28 am 
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Thank for all of the info!
Can hardware length be a problem? The longer the hardware length is in the assembly for main sheet blocks, doesn't that limit the amount of "sheet in" one can produce? With as inconvenient it is to have a single clevis pin and cotter ring, it would be the shortest length between the traveller and the bottom main sheet block.
New to all of this. Just trying to streamline setup without sacrificing performance. Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 11:16 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
culpyy wrote:
Thank for all of the info!
Can hardware length be a problem? The longer the hardware length is in the assembly for main sheet blocks, doesn't that limit the amount of "sheet in" one can produce? With as inconvenient it is to have a single clevis pin and cotter ring, it would be the shortest length between the traveller and the bottom main sheet block.
New to all of this. Just trying to streamline setup without sacrificing performance. Thanks again!
Short answer is "yes."


For racing, a small, screw-in bow shackle is used at the top of the mainsheet. Smaller the better, and on the new boats, the boom bail is installed higher, so you can just barely get the body of the shackle through. Very low profile.

On the bottom of the main, the stock pin is used, or you can use a fast pin or even a shackle (pin goes through the holes; body goes around the side of the traveler top plate.

Jib tack - use the pin of the shackle through the tack and the forestay adjuster and the bow goes around the front:
Image
Jib clew - better to show than tell:
Image
It's a bit hard to see, but the shackle goes through two holes in the clew plate and the blocks are hung off the side. It's a PITA to put on (three hands), but once on, it's the absolute lowest profile and it works very nicely. (photo is from my '98 before I installed the current stock traveler cars)


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 5:09 pm 
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Location: Panama City Beach, FL
Adding onto the procedure (tricks) that Marc listed for raising the jib, I also do the following.

I like to raise the jib first.

Make sure your boat is pointing into the wind.

While raising the jib, I pull the jib halyard down with my left hand while feeding the jib luff through my right hand so it unrolls properly and does not fly away or get wet.

When the jib is up most of the way, I temporarily tie off the jib halyard on the mast cleat and then pull the jib's tack forward to the forestay adjuster. Since the jib is not all the way up, I secure the luff of the jib under my right armpit and hold it there so I can easily connect the tack of the jib to the forestay adjuster.

After this, I make sure the wire part of of the jib halyard is behind the jib halyard grip and the jib halyard downhaul is looped around the lower cheek block on the mast before tensioning the jib halyard.

After hooking up the jib sheet blocks to the clew plate, I adjust the jib sheet so the jib is not flapping around (a clew plate can hurt), while I raise the Main.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 8:05 pm 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
ASDASC wrote:
Has anyone used these quick links? They are cheap, and if it comes somehow unscrewed it still doesn't disconnect under tension. They offer stainless steel versions for about $4.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware ... ogId=10053

anyone have a strong feeling about stainless steel versus galvanized?


I've used these for several outings now - work fine, have a breaking load far in excess of what the shrouds would take. I agree with the problems of opening them without a wrench - they can stick.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:49 pm 
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Hey everyone - thanks very much for these tips - I'm a brand new Hobie owner who inherited someone else's (weird and incorrect) rigging setup.

These quick connect shackles seem like incredible value - I'm going to pick a handful up and see how they perform...

Cheers -JP!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:57 pm 
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Location: Charlottesville, VA
I realize this is a slightly old thread but it has lots of good info. I'm trying to set my '00 up for faster/easier rigging since I have to trailer to every sailing day and I'd like some feedback specifically on the jib:

Halyard: I have the Aussie system. Is there any reason not to use a snap shackle like Hobie 20803? Alternatively, how about a D shackle with captive 1/2-turn pin like the SP185205?

Tack: In a different thread MattB recommended against quick pins. Maybe another D shackle with captive pin that is wired to the forestay adjuster?

Clew: Hobie sells the 3062 Fast Shackle specifically for that. Could I use that the way MattB shows above? Does the wire get in the way of anything? I suppose another option is to leave the blocks on the clew and remove the sheet.

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