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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 4:20 am 
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Location: Charlottesville, VA
I just found Ronstan "Keypin locking Halyard shackles" at West Marine. They look pretty much perfect for the jib head; install permanently on the lower halyard block.

Image

A snap shackle is even handier but I think weaker.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 12:29 pm 
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MBounds wrote:
culpyy wrote:
Thank for all of the info!
Can hardware length be a problem? The longer the hardware length is in the assembly for main sheet blocks, doesn't that limit the amount of "sheet in" one can produce? With as inconvenient it is to have a single clevis pin and cotter ring, it would be the shortest length between the traveller and the bottom main sheet block.
New to all of this. Just trying to streamline setup without sacrificing performance. Thanks again!
Short answer is "yes."


For racing, a small, screw-in bow shackle is used at the top of the mainsheet. Smaller the better, and on the new boats, the boom bail is installed higher, so you can just barely get the body of the shackle through. Very low profile.

On the bottom of the main, the stock pin is used, or you can use a fast pin or even a shackle (pin goes through the holes; body goes around the side of the traveler top plate.

Jib tack - use the pin of the shackle through the tack and the forestay adjuster and the bow goes around the front:
Image
Jib clew - better to show than tell:
Image
It's a bit hard to see, but the shackle goes through two holes in the clew plate and the blocks are hung off the side. It's a PITA to put on (three hands), but once on, it's the absolute lowest profile and it works very nicely. (photo is from my '98 before I installed the current stock traveler cars)


I tried the Jib Tack this way yesterday, and it ground on the plates........... errrrrggggg.

But it was a great day of sailing!!!!!!!!!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 2:39 pm 
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sxrracer wrote:
I tried the Jib Tack this way yesterday, and it ground on the plates........... errrrrggggg.

The plates are aluminum - much softer than the stainless steel shackle and the block body. Of course it's going to mark the plates to do it that way.

Some things that racers do don't preserve a boat's pristine condition. Then again, neither does just using the boat.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 5:56 pm 
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Lol. True!!!! When I rigged the boat I felt like I did not get enough tension on jib. Just getting use to it and trying different things. Either way it was a great day with 3 16' out at same time.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 6:22 pm 
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Wait, why were you not at the H17 Nationals?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:45 am 
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Long story that involves a nephew's bar mitzvah.

I could have gone, but my house key wouldn't have worked when I got home.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 5:40 pm 
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Let me guess, He is your wife's sister or brothers kid.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 5:52 pm 
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sxrracer wrote:
Let me guess, He is your wife's sister or brothers kid.

Wife's brother. Not hard to guess.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 8:47 am 
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Follow-up on the Ronstan locking shackles. I found a medium (1/4") one in my bits box, and tried to use it somewhere. Due to the locking tab on the pin, it will not fit through a 1/4" stay adjuster hole. The one I had previously bought for the jib head was the 3/16" version, which has a 3000+ pound rating. I think I will buy another one for the jib tack, and also try one for the clew. Yes I know I can't get the full-race mast rake with it but I don't normally sail that way. I wish there were a smaller one I could use there; there can't be more than 200 pounds load on that shackle. Maybe I will try Hobie's 3062 shackle instead.

With some 3/16" QR pins for the main and downhaul, I think my quick-rig wants will be met for the time being.

https://www.ronstan.com/marine/range.asp?RnID=205

EDIT: the nice thing about these compared to traditional bow shackles is that they have the pin in the middle that keeps them captive on one of the parts (halyard, jib blocks, etc).

HCC apparently sells the 3/16" version as the 92870000 "Headboard shackle" for $25, which isn't outrageously more than marine supply stores want for it ($17+).

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 10:42 am 
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Guidance from Marine Engineers, such as Matt Bounds please.

I sold my beloved H18SX, and am now running a 2015 H16, race tuned.

The eyes no longer allow me to quickly detach and re-attach ring-dings to clevis pins.
I am looking for a quicker and easier method of attaching jib tack + clew, downhaul, and main-sheet blocks, as time is few on the afternoons of our weekly Club races.
For Class Legal events, I can remove Quick pins and snap shackles.

When I asked the Hobie dealers about a Quick pin for the main blocks, they pointed out that the 'new' style upper blocks are 3/16ths and that a Quick Pin that small would likely not have the load bearing capacity required. Plus in strong winds, there is a chance with the sail possibly flailing about, that the Quick Pin might unhook itself. Thoughts? My H16 buddy at the next SC up the river runs with a 1/4" Quick pin + captive shackle, has never had a problem, and looks to have the same upper blocks. Did he drill out a hardened steel post to do that? Yikes.

For the jib, I suspect I am stuck with conventional shackles, so as to allow the jib sheets to be drawn as tight as possible. I do have a good quality snap shackle, however that adds about 2" to the sheeting length, so I only use this when sailing socially. This is a really handy gadget to have when returning to the dock on a windy day - very easy to de-power the H16.

Any suggestions for the connection of the boom to the upper downhaul blocks? I have added a captive pin shackle which makes it easier than ring dings. Use the snap shackle there?

Thanks

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 1:10 pm 
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John Lunn wrote:
When I asked the Hobie dealers about a Quick pin for the main blocks, they pointed out that the 'new' style upper blocks are 3/16ths and that a Quick Pin that small would likely not have the load bearing capacity required. Plus in strong winds, there is a chance with the sail possibly flailing about, that the Quick Pin might unhook itself. Thoughts? My H16 buddy at the next SC up the river runs with a 1/4" Quick pin + captive shackle, has never had a problem, and looks to have the same upper blocks. Did he drill out a hardened steel post to do that? Yikes.


My 2000 has a 1/4" pin on the 57C triple upper block swivel, but the lower block has a 3/16" hole in the swivel pin. I have used a quick release pin there without issues. I'm not using one now because either the ball mechanism in the pin failed of the hole in the traveler grew to the point that the pin wouldn't stay in; I'm going to replace the traveler part and go back to using the QR pin there. Personally I prefer the QR to be on the bottom so I can take the expensive main sheet system with me when I take the sails off the boat.

The 3/16" ball-lock QR pins from West Marine are rated at 2575 pounds in double shear. With a 6:1 main sheet, you'd have to pull 400+ pounds to reach that. I figure the most I'm going to pull is about 100 pounds. Failure is not a concern for me.

The only downside I see is some added bulk in that pinch pint between the lower blocks and the rear beam. I had a few cases where the main sheet tried to wrap around the pin handle.

What upper block do you have with the 3/16" pin? 40mm? Here's mine:

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 1:19 pm 
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Excellent reply, thank you.
Out of time this afternoon, have to leave shortly to rig.
I will email you later with pictures....
OR email me at lunnjohn 'at' magma 'dot' ca

We leave the H16 on the 'hard' in the secure yard at the Nepean Sailing Club (see www.nsc.ca)
so I leave the mainsheets + blocks on the tramp.

best

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SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 6:10 am 
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Per the Harken website:
H2640 40mm triple - 3/16" shackle pin - 1455 lb max working load
H2604 57mm triple - 1/4" shackle pin - 2380 lb max working load

I suspect that will explain the difference between your block and your friend's. The pin size vs. sheave diameter is probably standard; the H194 57mm lower (an older Hexaratchet design) also has a 1/4" hole for the shackle pin, but it is on a 3/16" pin because of the traveler.

Anyway, the pin strength doesn't seem to be a limiting factor.

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