Tighten the mid line holding the pole to the bridle intersect point - it needs to 'prebend' the pole so that once its loaded up it won't lift the end of the pole up.
I would reverse the two blocks - tack the auto ratchet block and place that one on the side rail - (you also have it twisted)
I would just look at a Tiger or Wild Cat rigging - they are all the same -
The kit instructions are from France - and are correct except for the part regarding the tang system - since we have comptips in the US we just included a separate mast tang to place in the same location - that and the measurements are in mm - but they are converted to inches for you.
If you have questions feel free to e mail me direct.
Also from looking at your picture I would guess that your jib is rigged wrong too - that doesn't look right to me either...it needs to be shackled to the forestay adjuster.
Thanks, Jbernier and Tallguy, for the information, its greatly appreciated. Regarding the twist in the carbo block, it is twisted to give the block more line to grip. And, the jib in the photo is shackled to the bottom hole of the forestay adjuster. What you see up top is the actual forestay connection.
I typically sail solo which only gives me two hands for the controls. One is always on the tiller and without the spin, the other is typically managing the main sheet. So, if I have the spin deployed, it sounds like you are saying that the main would be set in the cam and I'd have my free hand on the spin sheet?
How much control over the boat do you have in this situation? When solo, there's not a lot of ballast and a good gust could cause me to tip if the main is set in the cam block in and my hand is on the spin sheet.
And, Tallguy, can you explain what you mean by "Go to cassette tapes on your bridal for steering pointers"?