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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 1:58 pm 
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I'm probably going to put on all new standing rigging on my 82 H16 before the summer. I'm wondering if when I get all new rigging if it will cause any problems. I remember people upgrading, for example, just their shrouds and found that they were too short because their forestay is an older, less mast rake, model. In my head it seems like it wouldn't be a problem if I replaced everything at once but I wanted to verify before I buy. Thanks

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:24 pm 
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I think from what I have read, that if you replace it all you are OK. But if you replace just the shrouds, or just the bridle/jib/forestays you could have an issue.

I also think that at some point they leaned the mast base back a bit to make it rotate better when raked back. You will want to make sure that doesn't bind.

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Last edited by ASDASC on Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:39 pm 
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Hi Zack, I found this 'wire guide' on the HCANA website under Technical Infofmation.

Item Material Finish Length

HOBIE 16 2009
Forestay (Aussie) Thimbles both ends 1/8 7/19 18’ 9 3/4”
Jib Halyard Pigtail (Aussie) Thimbles both ends 1/8 7/19 9 3/4”
Bridle Thimble both ends 1/8 1x19 3’ 9 1/2”
Shroud Thimble both ends 1/8 1x19 18’ 10 1/4”
Trapwire Thimble, stops and handles 3/32 1x19 16’ 7 1/4”

HOBIE 16 OLDER
Pigtail Thimble both ends 5/32 7x19 6"
Pigtail (Roller furler system) Thimble both ends 1/8 1x19 14 1/4” *
Forestay - Lower Thimble both ends 1/8 1x19 17' 6"
Bridle Thimble both ends 1/8 1x19 3' 8 1/4"
Bridle for Hobie furler Fork and Thimble 1/8 1x19 3' 6 3/4"
Shroud Thimble both ends 1/8 1x19 18' 11" (4/95)
Main Halyard (Non CompTip) C/L Shkle to near side stop 15 5/8" 3/32 7x7 25' 7 3/4"
Jib Halyard C/L Shackle to downhaul block 1/8 7x19 16' 7 3/4"
Trapwire Thimble, stops and handles 3/32 1x19 16' 9 1/8"
Jib Luff Wire / 16 Race Thimble both ends 1/8 7/19 15’ 8 1/2”
Jib Luff Wire / 16 Rec Thimble both ends 1/8 7/19 16’ 9 1/2 “

The formatting lost its mind, so you may just want to go to their website.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 2:40 am 
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When its time to replace my rigging, I'm thinking of talking to the guys at SaltyDog. They're located nearby in SE Michigan (Brighton area), and seem to have good prices on an entire matched kit. I'd give them a quick ring to double-check details before clicking the buy button.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:13 am 
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Zack - I believe the shrouds are supposed to be 19'¼". The other measurements seem correct. I order my standing rigging from Murrays.com (800-786-7245). Specify wether the measurements are from inside the thimble or outside the thimble. Stretch your old lines out and measure them first before you order from Salty Dog or Murrary. Call them first to see if they want the measurements from inside the thimble or outside. [I believe inside the thimble - nail to nail.....). Your old shrouds should have stretched abut ½" - 1" from when they were new, but the bridles and forestay probably haven't stetched much at all. I prefer to keep my forestay attached to the top hole of my 10 hole adjuster and adjust the tension on my shrouds on the 7 hole adjusters. See where they are now. If at the middle or bottom of the adjuster, you can order your shrouds a little shorter. If at the middle or top, you can order them a little longer. Specify wether they should be coated or uncoated, black or white, single or double swaged.
If you like your boat the way it is now and you're having fun with it, keep the measurements on your new rigging about the same as they are now.
Keep it simple! Have fun! Keep it safe!
Richard


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:45 am 
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Thanks guys. That is way more information than I needed.

From what I can tell, if I order all new standing rigging, it will work fine together.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:12 am 
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You would probably be wise to measure the length of your current shrouds to find out how they compare to the new ones. If your boat and sails are from 1982, there's a decent chance you may run into problems using shrouds designed for today's rigs because they're set up for so much more rake now than they were 20 years ago. In particular, the jib may not be able to sheet in fully- the blocks will bottom out too soon. You will definitely need low profile blocks on the main and jib. You might also have to use 10 hole shroud adjusters rather than the stock 7 hole adjusters so you can stand the rig more upright.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:48 am 
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I really like that Salty Dog page. They also have a package with all the sheets and lines.

For the shrouds they offer white or black coated, but I think for freshwater we are better off with uncoated, right?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 10:05 am 
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srm wrote:
You would probably be wise to measure the length of your current shrouds to find out how they compare to the new ones. If your boat and sails are from 1982, there's a decent chance you may run into problems using shrouds designed for today's rigs because they're set up for so much more rake now than they were 20 years ago. In particular, the jib may not be able to sheet in fully- the blocks will bottom out too soon. You will definitely need low profile blocks on the main and jib. You might also have to use 10 hole shroud adjusters rather than the stock 7 hole adjusters so you can stand the rig more upright.

sm

Ok I'll have to check. I was given newer shrouds from Ringo (sails a Falcon F16 now) that were probably original from 2003. When we put them on, I had to double the forestay adjusters (2x 7 pin adjusters) to get the forestay to reach. I would imagine that a newer style forestay wire would alleviation that problem. Or do they even sell longer forestays now that the Aussie jib system is stock?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:11 am 
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ASDASC wrote:
For the shrouds they offer white or black coated, but I think for freshwater we are better off with uncoated, right?


Makes no difference coated or uncoated in fresh water (from a corrosion standpoint). For salt water, some suppliers recommend uncoated so that salt water does't become trapped against the stainless steel and cause corrosion. Uncoated also allows for comlete inspection of the wire.

That said, Hobie has provided coated shrouds for decades. They simply recommend that you replace the wires regularly.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 12:54 pm 
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Zack - Before going through any more time and expense on replacing your standing rigging, you should ask the following questions of others on this forum: (1) If you buy and install shorter shrouds and longer forestay, or add another hole adjuster (More mast rake) should you also re-adjust the rudders? (2) Do you need to re-adjust the rings or dog bones on the trap wires? (3) Do you need to purchase and install new, low profile, main sheet blocks so you can sheet in tight? (4) Will raking the mast back significantly improve the performance of your 30 year old boat.
Do you have a comp tip?
Did you buy this 30 year old boat for recreation or racing?
I honestly don't have all the answers, but from reading other posts over the years about raking the mast back for recreational sailors it seems as though it might require more money and work for you.
You might be better off replacing your old rigging with newer rigging the same lengths.
I'm guessing that you bought a 30 year old boat for recreation and to keep the expenses down; keep it safe and not spend a lot of time and money on accessories and making adjustments.
Coated shrouds......I don't know. I was told years ago that the bare shrouds will leave marks on your sails when you let them out while sailing down wind. Also leave marks on your life jacket or shirt. If that's true then it might be worth the extra few dollars to purchase coated wires to keep your sails, etc. clean.
Keep it safe and have fun!
Richard


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:47 pm 
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Thanks for the great responses guys!

As far as the answers to those questions, I am probably somewhere in between a recreational sailor and a racer. I haven't raced but I plan to this summer in Florida and this fall in Michigan if I have time. My '82 cat is in amazing shape for its age but I don't expect it to be anywhere as fast as a newer boat.

As far as rake issues, I just bought some low-profile Harken 6:1 main blocks for $100 on ebay so that shouldn't be a problem. I am also already planning on re drilling my rudders this weekend because I was having terrible tiller tug previously after raking the mast back because of the newer shrouds (2003). My only other concern would be not having low-pro jib blocks. Maybe somewhere down the road I will find some for cheap and upgrade.

I just figure since I already have the shorter shrouds, low-pro main blocks, and already plan to re drill the rudders, I might as well do some full out "rakeage".

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 2:15 pm 
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I need to spend more time on eBay! That is a great deal on the Harkin blocks.

I have an ebay app on my phone and will add a search for Harkin Blocks and see what shows up over the next few weeks.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:44 pm 
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ASDASC wrote:
I need to spend more time on eBay! That is a great deal on the Harkin blocks.

I have an ebay app on my phone and will add a search for Harkin Blocks and see what shows up over the next few weeks.

Make sure you search "Harken" and not "Harkin" :)

I spend way too much time looking for deals on this stuff online. I also have an iphone so I'm always checking for new ebay items. My other favorite website is searchtempest.com. It searches all of the craigslists near you and displays them in a list that you can browse through.

Now if I could just find a tiller extension, cat trax, or a cover...

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:56 pm 
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Yeah, I also need a tiller extension. Mine is shattered fiberglass, but I wrapped it up good with duct tape. I was thinking about using a broom handle.

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