Rigging ?s

I just bought a 79 hobie 16 this weekend. I rigged it just like the manual said, but I feel like it could be more descriptive. There were a couple things I am not sure about.

1. Does the boom lock in or just sit in the groove and held up by the main halyard?
2. On the front end of the boom(bottom) it looks like it has a bracket for a boom vang or something. I have nothing to put in it and the pic in the manual shows nothing going to it.. ??
3. When raising the sail, as it is almost all the way up, the line catches on the metal piece on the wire(forgot name). I finally got it up and when lowering it caught again. Is there a trick to getting over these catches for sail raising/lowering?
4. Lastly, what would you suggest to replace those annoying "ring dings"

There is a little more to rigging this boat than my laser!
Thanks!

Yes, feed the gooseneck into the sail track. The halyard holds it up and the downhaul will pull it down to the correct level. Tighten teh downhaul only enough to remove the wrinkles from the luff of the sail.



I'm not sure what the bracket is without seeing it, but it does sound like an attachment for a boom vang. Don't worry about it as you really don't need a boom vang.



The main halyard should catch on the little hook in the front of the mast. This is what holds your sail up. You only tighten the main halyard to kep if from getting tangled up. To lower the sail, pull the halyard down, then forward so it clears the hook. Going by the vintage of your boat, you probably have grommets in your main sail about 1/3 of the way up. The problem of your main halyard getting caught a second time while lowering the sail is you ahave another catch on it for reefing. You will find that the grommets are probably located very close to the boom when it catches a second time.



There has very recently been a discussion about how to quickly rig your boat. It will go into detail about replacing ring dings. The best suggestion I can give you without a long disertation is to leave most of your boat rigged. I only undid the forestay and the rudder assembly. I left everything else attached for trailering.

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Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO

I have the same question about the metal nuts on the cable portion of the main halyard. Are they supposed to be fed through the sail track or ride outside of them. Either way they get caught really bad in the pulley up top and they are hard to pull through. I have to be out on the front of one of my toons to get it through. Its not the reefing gromets that get caught its these metal nuts. So how do we avoid it?

The metal nuts (swages) are supposed to catch on the hook near the top of the mast. They will be difficult to get over the pulley. You will need to have the halyard far enough forward so that (when lowering) the sail the swages are not going to go through the hook.

The halyard is not fed through the sail track on the H16. It is about 1" from the sail track. You can see what the spacing should be by where you attach the main halyard to the main sail.

If your halyard is old enough to have the second swage on it, you may want to consider buying a new one. It will not have the second swage on it and you won't have to worry about it breaking while setting up your boat. They are not that much.

I would also inspect your standing rigging. If you have no idea how old that is or it is more than 5 years old... get a new set.

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Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO

Careful, I don't think the swage on the new, comptip, halyard and the old, all wire, halyard are in the same position.

If you have an '84-'85 or older all aluminum mast, clean that sheave at the top and dry lubricate it (they don't sell replacements any more). Keep your luff track clean and dry lubricate it as well as the sails' luff rope. Understand that the last several feet of the hoist you cannot muscle up. As Nick desribed stay forward and in-line with the mast while pulling. A nudge up on the batten pocket and another pull down and repeat until all the way up. Yanking hard and at the wrong angle does no more than frustrate you and damage that plastic wheel.

Cover the sheave/mast head when not in use to keep UV from eating up the plastic. Should work for years to come.

If not, it's time to cut your mast and install a comp-tip.

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hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297

From what I understand, unless you are racing the all AL masts actualy are prefered by many sailors. leave the mast whole and find a round mast cap on ebay or somewhere.

My pulley does not even turn and I have far less problems setting my main than others in our fleet for some reason.

also, just incase it is not clear, you need to pull the second swage past the forked metal peice, than walk the haylard back up to the mast and let the tension off. The swag should be under the fork.

Sam

so what is the first swage for?

Reefing the Main, from what I hear, this is not something real cat sailors do :)

In case you do not know, (I didn't until a few weeks ago) in reallllllllyyyyyyyyyy high winds you might want to make your main "Smaller" hook up on the first swage, tie your main to the boom through the grommets in your main and you have basically reefed your main, back in the late 70's this would have probably been an entirely different topic (for me anyway)

Have fun.
Sam

[quote="Banzilla"]back in the late 70's this would have probably been an entirely different topic (for me anyway)

1982, Lake Cheney, skippers' meeting...

PRO; "The winds are 35, gusting to 50, we STRONGLY suggest anyone with a 16 should SERIOUSLY consider reefing their main sail"

Some guy way in the back; "You ever try to light a 16 main?"

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hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297

Now that is truly funny.