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 Post subject: 16 Gudgeon replacement
PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 8:01 am 
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Location: St. Helena, CA
I have an 1984 Hull that I need to replace the Gudgeons on. Problem is 3 of the lower screw are frozen. :?
What the best way to handle this problem?
Break the screw and Drill & Tap?
Any ideas?
My plan is to upgrade to 1 piece gudgeons.

Also are there any internal differances in the Gudgeon area between a 91 hull and an 84?

Cork Guy

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 4:32 am 
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no matter what its best not to break it. Stainless is not easy to drill so if you can avoid it I would. soak it with PB blaster or similar penatrating oil and tap on it with a hammer and walk away. 10 minutes later do it again. Try turning it tighter before loosening. Heat can be your friend too but unfortunalty there isn't a good way to heat the screw without messing up your glass.


I restored my '73 last summer and replaced the 2 piece with the newer 1 piece gudgeons. I did have to do a little filing to make everthing fit right but all in all it was an easy mod.

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 6:16 am 
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Location: Virginia Beach VA
If you haven't already stripped the heads of the screws try an impact driver tool. I use mine for a lot of things on the boat as I am in a saltwater environment. About 20 bucks at Sears.

I "upgraded" to one piece gudgeons and I also had to do a lot of filing and grinding. I wouldn't do it again though as there is no real performance advantage that I can detect. If your stock gudgeons are in really poor shape just buy new ones. You'll find most of the rudder slop is in the lower castings anyway so a one piece gudgeon won't really tighten things up.


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 9:03 am 
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Thanks for the replys,
I will start with some penetrating oil and see what happens.

Reason for this repair is I believe the plate inside the transom is slightly bent.

Image

Image

Cork guy

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 9:32 am 
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Location: Panama City Beach, FL
Cork Guy,

I had a similiar problem with my 82 H16. I had re-tapped several of the holes and put in larger bolts and also used 5200 to secure them (probably now permanently?). I also had to grind down some of the heads on the larger bolts.

The one thing that most likely causes that type of wear patterns in your rudder pins is if the top and bottom gudgeons are out of alignment. With the rudder removed and with a new rudder pin, you should be able to easily slide it through both gudgeons at the same time. If not, then use a similiar sized steel rod or bolt placed in the gudgeon's hole to bend it slightly so it is re-aligned.

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82' H16
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 11:15 am 
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is that a crack above your lowere gudgeon? I can't tell from the pic if it is a crack or a scratch. If its a crack you have a potentialy bigger issue. There is wood behind the transom glass. If it is a crack it will soak and swell the wood and end up blowing out the transom... if its just a scratch.. ignore me and carry on ;)

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 9:00 pm 
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Have you tried an impact screwdriver?Sometimes they can get screws regular drivers can't you don't have to hit very hard to make them work.


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 6:00 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
reelknotty wrote:
is that a crack above your lowere gudgeon?


It looks like a piece of seaweed to me.

I would use the penetrating oil and the impact driver (carefully!). It looks like you already busted one of the screw heads on the lower gudgeon. Worst case scenario, you have to install an inspection port in front of the transom and thru-bolt the gudgeon screws.

If you're just trying to reduce rudder pin wear, I would switch to stainless steel pins. They don't wear out.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 9:12 am 
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reelknotty wrote:
is that a crack above your lowere gudgeon?

There are cracks all around the lower gudgeon - looks like it's been pushed in forcefully at some point. Maybe backing down in the surf?

Once you get the gudgeon off, it wouldn't hurt to grind that loose gel off and see what's going on underneath. You might already have water intrusion problems.

At the absolute worst, if you can't get all the machine screws out, grind the remaining ones down as much as you can. There are 8 holes for machine screws in the cast gudgeons and they don't all line up with the old holes. It's not the end of the world if you can't get one of the new screws in because there's an old screw blocking it.

You might get lucky and have clear passage for all the new holes.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:36 am 
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I was able to remove all the screw with a bit of a fight!!!

Then was rather furstrated trying to install BRAND NEW CAST GUDGEONS !!! The holes don't line up. Had to drill tap fight , fight, fight. 4 hours later they work pretty well. I siliconed the crack and added a small shim.

Main reason I did this upgrade was the lower gudgeon was bent in at the top about 1/32nd of an inch. I could have squared it up with gel coat but decited to go for the new boat look.
Image

More upgrades. I added about 1/4 inch of gel coat to bottoms of the hulls to bring shape back from beach wear. Wet sanded, buffed and waxed whole boat. Added new side diamonds graphics and stripes. New CF numbers will go on today. And were talking to a dealer about new "HOBIE 16" stearn decals. (would be nice if these were listed in the catalog!!!)
Boat got its first stress test last weekend at Commodor's regatta at Huntington CA. It made it 4 out of 5 races with 14 and 15 year old girl team scored 3 place in 16B. Plus scored 3 flips! and a jib pocked blow out.
Image
All in All I think it looks pretty good next to the much newer 16's in this picture.
Image

Off to West Marine's Rigging shop for tramp lacing, jib and maybe a main sheet?

Black Mesh tramp will go on tonight.

Watch out Div 3 16's Abby's got a boat

Corkguy H18 #20

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:39 am 
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I was able to remove all the screw with a bit of a fight!!!

Then was rather furstrated trying to install BRAND NEW CAST GUDGEONS !!! The holes don't line up. Had to drill tap fight , fight, fight. 4 hours later they work pretty well. I siliconed the transom crack and added a small shim.

Main reason I did this upgrade was the lower gudgeon was bent in at the top about 1/16th of an inch. I could have squared it up with gel coat but decited to go for the new boat look.
Image

More upgrades. I added about 1/4 inch of gel coat to bottoms of the hulls to bring shape back from beach wear. Wet sanded, buffed and waxed whole boat. Added new side diamonds graphics and stripes. New CF numbers will go on today. And were talking to a dealer about new "HOBIE 16" stearn decals. (would be nice if these were listed in the catalog!!!)
Boat got its first stress test last weekend at Commodor's regatta at Huntington CA. It made it 4 out of 5 races with 14 and 15 year old girl team scored 3 place in 16B. Plus scored 3 flips! and a jib pocked blow out.
Image
All in All I think it looks pretty good next to the much newer 16's in this picture.
Image

Off to West Marine's Rigging shop for tramp lacing, jib and maybe a main sheet?

Black Mesh tramp will go on tonight.

Watch out Div 3 16's Abby's got a boat

Corkguy H18 #20

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 6:17 pm 
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is it a problem that that piece of hull is not there above the top gudgeon in this picture, mine is tearing off and I was thinking about using epoxy to fix it but I could also just rip it off, which should I do?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 8:59 pm 
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It was cut out when we started. It does not go further forward than the standard rudder pin hole. I coated with gel coat just to make it blend in a little better.

Corkguy

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