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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:00 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 7:45 am
Posts: 3
Location: italy
This is my first post, so first of all i want thank all of you guys for sharing your experience, hints and tips. this is a great forum!
after fixing the ordinary (for a 90's hobie) soft spots and worn bottom, now I'm trying to fix the elongated pylon holes, so my question: inside the hull the pylon is bonded with polyester resin, right?
To fix the holes if I laminate an aluminium plate of 3mm and some layers of glass with poly resin inside the pylon and redrill, will be strong ehough?

thanks from italy and sorry for my poor english!


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 2:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:06 am
Posts: 278
Location: Charlotte, NC
Hi lucper - I don't have an answer but this might help visualize how it was originally done at one time. Not sure if it was the same for every model year.

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=10731

Your English is much much better than my Italian!

Jonathan

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Jonathan
'85 H16 __/) 87468 Tidal Wave
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:37 pm
Posts: 152
Location: Sechelt, BC, Canada... Sunshine Coast
Perhaps you could drill a larger dia. hole and just use larger bolts??? Easy solution if they are no too worn...


I think i have seen Hobie 16s with different size bolts from different years...
good luck...

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1980 •Hobie 16- Karumba sails - soft hulls now a Row-B-Cat1983 Hobie 16 Tsunami sails - blue hulls-Sold •Present boat -1998 Hobie 16 Solana Sails furling jib
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 10:21 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 12:51 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Wilm NC
lucper- I can tell you what I did. I took the tramp frame off the pylons (this may take some effort...), found some alum pipe (ID .625") to act as a sleeve. Drilled and fitted the sleeve into the pylon (mostly over the existing hole) and formed it to shape using a file. Used JB Weld to epoxy it in place, and then enlarged the holes in the casting that fits over the pylon to accept a 5/8-11 (4") SS bolt once the tramp frame was seated again. Couple nylon washers to keep the SS bolt/nut away from the Alum. Also used a small strip of vinyl siding to act as a shim when the casting was being set.
Wha-la! My boat is once again about as solid as it gets.
You may find it easier to trace the location of the sleeve hole and use an aggresive round file to get you there. The Alum files easily. Don't make the hole location too low on the pylon, you want the enlarged casting hole to be fairly close. Good luck.

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'79 H16
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