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 Post subject: rig tension
PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2003 10:19 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2003 10:16 am
Posts: 62
Hi there - I just bought a 1984 Hobie 16 and I have a few questions
about rigging it.

To date I've been raising the jib before I raise the main. I was told
that the overall rig tension relies heavily on the jib halyard tension
so I've been putting as much force on the jib halyard as I can before
cleating it off.

The main is much easier to raise before the jib is up and tensionsed -
what is the reccomended rigging order? Main or jib first?

I'm missing the teflon washer that sits at the base of the mast - I
read about fabricating a temporary one out of a plastic milk container
- to date I've been sailing without one and have noticed that the mast
very rarely rotates. In addition to the lack of a washer, I think it
may be partially due to my jib-halyard tension. Could I possibly be
putting too much tension on the jib halyard?

My boat is missing the original downhaul and the gooseneck that I have
doesn't make it any easier to apply downhaul with a 1:1 line setup.
Reccomendations? Eventually I'd like to buy a better gooseneck and a
downhaul system.

I've read about people sheeting the main "block-to-block." I'm unable
to do this - I can't come closer than 3-5 inches between the main
sheet blocks. Possibly due to too much jib halyard tension?

I've also read a lot about "raking" the mast. I assume this means bending toward the stern - sounds like it can improve the boat performance and possibly even help avoid pitch-poling...how do I rake the mast?

Lastly, I've read that a common problem with the 16 jib is the battens
getting caught on the halyards when the sail tries to switch sides -
I'm having this same problem. - (I've read about the hinging battens
that Hobie sells - I have more pressing expenses on this 16 to worry
about so I'll have to make due with what I have for now) - Is there
anything wrong with using a saw to shorten the actual battens?
Clearly they can't be so short that they can't be tensioned, but if
other people are doing it and having even slight improvement, then I'm
going to as well.

Thanks for your help!

Gabe Silverman


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 Post subject: Questions? Answers...
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2003 9:58 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 8898
Location: Oceanside, California
I always raise the main first. I don't like the jib clew smacking me in the back of the head while I work on the main.

You can even use a quarter in the cup as a bearing. Best to get something in there so the base and cup don't wear and the mast rotates easily. Teflon is best and it conforms to the cup shape easily. The jib halyard tension can cause rotation problems as well. You should tension the halyard enough to keep the jib / forestay from sagging while going upwind, but the main sheet tension does this as well, so too much tension is not needed. Just make the shrouds taunt while sitting on the beach. Some sailors even sail the rig loose in higher wind to help depower, so what is the right tension? There is none, but I like the rig to be snug when I sheet out so it doesn't bang around.

The gooseneck would slide easier with a bearing kit added. They are standard now. You can see it in the catalog on page 39. The downhaul line should be 3:1. Tied off on the gooseneck, run to the cleat and back up to the gooseneck ring and back to the cleat. Tension the mainsheet to more easily downhaul.

Mast rake? Loosen the jib halyard. Move the shrouds to lower holes in the adjusters and re-tension the halyard. Repeat till you get it aft enough to nearly "two block" when the halyard is tight and mainsheet is as tight as you would likely sheet that day.

Yep, cut the jib battens short as possible while allowing for tensioning. You can also tape over the cap from one side of the sail to the other.

_________________
Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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 Post subject: thanks
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2003 10:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2003 10:16 am
Posts: 62
Thanks for the tips!


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