Question about trap rigging on new boats

Love the new boat, but struggling to understand how the new trap wire system makes more sense than the old one. In the new system, I've got grommets in the tramp to run the very thin bungee cord through. The grommets are so far forward on the tramp that I've gotta think that limits the ability to bring skipper and or crew aft when out on the wire. Is anyone not using the tramp grommets for one or both trap lines? Has anyone converted the stock skinny bungee to heavier diameter bungee?

Also, my trap lines are so floppy when boat is stored on beach without sails up. Anybody have any good tips on how to stow/rig halyards when boat is beach stored to keep trap lines taut and halyards from clanging and banging the mast? I think my trap lines go fairly slack when boat is not rigged due to the extended mast rake in the new boats. I'm looking for a halyard stowing system that tightens up the shrouds and trap lines and keeps things neat and organized. Thanks!

I have seen more people NOT use the extra Tramp grommets for the trap wires than I have use them.. If you don't like them I wouldn't use them.. I have been thinking about adding them to my boat.. Along with a couple extra blocks under the tramp for running the shock cord through allowing a longer distance of shock cord under the tramp making it more comfortable to trap out at the edges of the tramp and still use the extra grommets, as well as hopefully allowing enough room to wrap the crew round the jib without constantly breaking the shock cord..

When camping near our boat I hook the halyards on the trap wires to keep them from making noise banging on the mast... Or.. just wrap them around the mast a time or two...

Or...

You could use a short piece of line to use as a pretend jib... Allowing you to tension the rig not only keeping the Jib halyard off the mast but also keeping the rest of the rig from banging around with the wind... and doing it this way would give you plenty of extra jib halyard to wrap around the mast keeping the Main halyard from slapping around.






My advice is worth less than you paid for it..

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www.thehobiewayoflife.com

+1 on wrapping halyards around mast a couple of times before cleating. Then attach jib sheet to forestay adjuster/bridle using the shackle that normally attaches to jib clew. Sheet in to pull the mast forward (taking out slack in rig) and cleat.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16

For the trap wires, I agree with above, you do whatever you prefer. The grommets just give you the option of leading the bungee through the tramp. They help to keep the trap wires more organized.

The thing I always found annoying on the 16 was that if you were trapping in marginal conditions, the skipper would come in at the back of the boat and disconnect his trap line. The trap wire would be all the way near the back of the tramp. If you then needed to sit forward on the tramp, your hiking stick gets fouled up in the trap line. With the grommets, all the wires return to one spot, so fewer chances for fouling the hiking stick.

I would probably rig up the jib halyard to pull the mast forward while on the beach, or simply move the forestay down in the bridle adjuster to move the mast forward.

The main halyard you can wrap around the mast or lead the lines back and tie off to the rear crossbar to get them completely off the mast.

sm