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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 10:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:06 am
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I didn't want to hijack the other recent trailering thread but have a trailering question as well around rudders/long distance trailering. If you trailer for an extended period - I'll throw out a number of 3 hours or more - do you leave rudders on the boat or remove them? Seems like on a long trip, with the weight of the extended EPO rudders, bouncing and yawing along on the highway and back roads could take a toll on the gudgeons and other rudder hardware.

I'm sure sailing puts even more significant stresses on the rudder hardware but at least that is by design as opposed to what's happening on a trailer. Or maybe the trailer motion is insignificant compared to sailing and so no worries. Plus the tradeoff hassle and time it takes to remove and reinstall...

So what do you do with the rudders? Any other long distance trailering tips (aside from basics [but feel free to chime in on these anyway]: checking bearings, ties downs, tire pressure, etc). We have a 5 hour trip ahead and looking for your tips and experience. I'm sure many of you have hauled much longer 8) . Thanks!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 2:27 am 
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Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 5:22 am
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
I always remove my rudders for long trips because I drive a little fast and hard and don't want the rudders bouncing around. On my 16 trailer, I built an aluminum sail storage box called the "mailbox" that has a redwood tray that the rudder assembly lays in wrapped up in beach towels.On my 21 trailer, I built an aluminum sail tube big enough to hold my rudder assemble and sails.


If you want sometime to last, Take good care of it.


But if I am just driving to the lake for the weekend, I leave them on.

Once I get my boats homes and wash them off. I like to store my rudders out of the sun and in the sail tubes than put on the boat covers. :D

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
The worst enemy of your boat while trailering is vibration and chafe.

Any trip more than an hour, and I strip the boat down - no rudders, no wires or rigging on the mast. For really long trips, even the jib sheets and bridles come off.

Tie-down straps shouldn't touch the hulls and shouldn't flutter in the slipstream (put a twist in them to stop flutter).


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:16 pm 
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what do you tie down, if not the pontoons? the tramp frame and/or dolphin bar?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 2:01 pm 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
I go front to back with two straps over the beams


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:23 pm 
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fair enough...


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:36 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
richestorags wrote:
what do you tie down, if not the pontoons? the tramp frame and/or dolphin bar?

Do a search for tie-downs and you'll find pictures of my system (which is just a modification of a system that you can get from your Hobie dealer).
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 1:00 pm 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
I know this is an obvious one, but from what I have seen it needs to be said. Have a spare that is inflated to the proper pressure and in good shape. The only thing that is worse than getting a flat on your trailer is not having a spare to repace it with.

I do not know how many trailers I have seen without spares. Several of the ones that do have spares the rim is rusted out or the tire is dry rotted severely.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 2:24 pm 
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Location: Indianapolis, IN
Hobie Nick wrote:
I know this is an obvious one, but from what I have seen it needs to be said. Have a spare that is inflated to the proper pressure and in good shape. The only thing that is worse than getting a flat on your trailer is not having a spare to repace it with.

I do not know how many trailers I have seen without spares. Several of the ones that do have spares the rim is rusted out or the tire is dry rotted severely.


On that note, I even keep a spare hub just in case the hub goes to hell. I replaced the hubs last year and just bought an extra to put in my cat box. They are only like $30 from Northern Tool and are easy enough to install on the side of the road if need be. It definitely won't be fun but it gives you a way out if the hub seizes up. Most importantly, check your bearings regularly and make sure you have enough grease.

Also, a little tip with spare tire carriers: try not to have it set up vertically where the tire hangs below the frame. If you're like me and are constantly backing the trailer over hills, curbs, and jet ski riders you'll be glad that the trailer isn't riding low and rubbing on everything. The previous picture is a good place to put it except it may be a little difficult to get in there and undo it under the boat. I even went to the extreme of mounting it on the right side of the trailer so that I'm not hanging out into traffic if I'm on the side of the road. Probably a little OCD but it makes me happy :roll:

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 7:26 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Thanks for all the tips :!: Planning a trip to Oak Island, NC and this is all helpful.

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'85 H16 __/) 87468 Tidal Wave
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 12, 2009 5:25 pm
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Location: New Port Richey Fl.
My rudders come off every time it leaves the beach. Over time, 1 mile or 50 miles the mounting holes will "egg out" from the vibration going down the road. It does add to the set-up and take down time, but filling and redrilling the holes is a pain in the a__. Have fun, Jim.

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