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Traveler Lubrication
http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=44809
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Author:  burnin vern [ Sat Oct 20, 2012 10:53 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

As ftlauderdale16 says, I use the CRC silicone spray, sprayed the track on the mast for the main sail. Makes it alot easier to pull up the sail!!

Author:  snacker1981 [ Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:14 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

I don't know if I should load this as a new topic,
But,
I have been getting a mouth full from other sailors since changing my traveler and track. how can I find out if it is class legal. according to some people it is not legal to change anything on the boat and then there are others that say its not a problem since the track I installed is the same as what the tigers use " that apparently makes it official Hobie equipment"

Author:  MVD [ Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

Regarding the traveler track question, I think this is a gray area, however, I think you're legal. Here's a link to the IHCA class rules: http://www.hobieclass.com/default.asp?P ... s/10773/0/. Go to page 18, paragraph 2.1. It says that, "The tracks shall not be altered, changed or added to in any way." One could argue that you would be in violation since you've change the type of traveler track from the original version, but someone else could argue that you are alright if a Hobie built track is on your boat and that track hasn't been altered, changed or added to. What does the word "changed" apply to? I think the latter interpretation is correct. I say that because the same paragraph states that "Any type of traveller cars that operate in the HOBIE CAT CO. supplied traveller tracks are acceptable." It would seem that if the IHCA will allow any type of Hobie supplied traveller car, consistency would dictate that they would also allow any type of Hobie supplied traveler track. Just don't make any alterations to it. You could probably get away with trimming it down a small bit if required to mount it on your boat.

Hope this helps.

Author:  MBounds [ Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:21 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

ftlauderdale16 wrote:
Snaacker1981 wrote:
This is what I did and it ended up costing a bit, but made the a really big difference.
change the main sheet traveler system to a 22mm Harken system.
Download the Harken manual from the web.
Buy a new Harken traveler car model 2728
and buy the 22mm small boat track.

Install and all round happiness :D this especially helps if you have a spi boat.
this is the same system that the Tigers use.


Is this setup race legal? :?:

No. Not in the slightest.

It actually works too well. When you're traveled out and try to sheet in, the traveler will move instead of the mainsheet coming in.

The "French" boats do not have a "ball bearing system" - they have the same system that comes on the US boats - the traveler car has larger, brass roller bearings that work much better than the original stainless steel pins.

Steve - the way to test whether the track is worn or not is to lift up on the traveler car while moving it from side-to-side. If it rolls smoothly, then the track is OK. If it stutters or jumps, then the track is worn (assuming there aren't any bent roller pins).

Author:  Karl Brogger [ Sun Oct 28, 2012 5:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

Harken one drop is pretty amazing stuff.

Author:  snacker1981 [ Tue Oct 30, 2012 1:49 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

Quote:
No. Not in the slightest.

It actually works too well. When you're traveled out and try to sheet in, the traveler will move instead of the mainsheet coming in.

The "French" boats do not have a "ball bearing system" - they have the same system that comes on the US boats - the traveler car has larger, brass roller bearings that work much better than the original stainless steel pins.

Steve - the way to test whether the track is worn or not is to lift up on the traveler car while moving it from side-to-side. If it rolls smoothly, then the track is OK. If it stutters or jumps, then the track is worn (assuming there aren't any bent roller pins).


that is a pity that its not even almost legal.. :-( This is my fast and furious non legal racer :-)
I meant to say brass roller pins.
cant I argue that the original stainless steel pin sliders are not available anymore, so therefore what other option do I have?

Unless you still get it in the US. Can you still buy the old system traveler.

I am a bit concerned that the system will work too well, since I haven't tested
it.

anywho thanks for clearing up this matter.

Author:  mmiller [ Wed Oct 31, 2012 10:45 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

snacker1981 wrote:
cant I argue that the original stainless steel pin sliders are not available anymore


Nope... still available.

Totally agree with Matt Bounds. Same issue on a the Hobie 20 and other cats that use a ball bearing track and car. They roll too easily and it is really hard to sheet properly with the car traveled out at all.

You would not be faster though, so who would really care?

Author:  MBounds [ Fri Nov 23, 2012 4:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

I'm reviving an old topic here just to post a photo of something I found - an original, late '60s / early '70s main traveler car - with the two succeeding cars.

The one with the large brass wheels has been standard equipment on new boats since 1996.

Image

Author:  ASDASC [ Thu Apr 24, 2014 11:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

I just saw this picture using the search button!

I still have issues with my traveler, and am preparing for my first race in May. When I lifted up on the traveler as MBounds had suggested, it was clear that something is not right. I have a spare rear crossbar that seems to have a decent track. My local Hobie dealer has both travelers available to me.

Will the brass wheeled newer traveler fit in my older track? Or will the brass wheeled traveler only fit in the newer 'deep track'? Should I just buy the older style traveler car?

What I am really trying to avoid is dropping another $500 between the rear crossbar and the boom! With unlimited funds I would get the new traveler, a new deep track, Harken 6:1 block set up, and a new mainsheet and be done with it. I think I can live with my blocks for another season, but I need to be able to work the traveler car, for sure!

Author:  MBounds [ Thu Apr 24, 2014 7:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

The traveler cars only work in their respective tracks. Brass-wheeled car only works in the deep track.

Author:  ASDASC [ Tue May 31, 2016 9:19 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Traveler Lubrication

OK, I am finally getting back to this project. I have bought the replacement old style traveler about a year ago and carried it around until 2 weekends ago when I tried to replace it. I had a couple of issues that need guidance.

- I confirmed that the track is has issues. When I popped three end rivets and put the new car in, I could still feel the rough bumps when rolling the car and pulling up slightly. It will need to be replaced, and I have an extra that seems good, but is attached to another rear crossbar. It wasn't with me that day, so I just popped another rivet in using the old car.

- When I popped the new rivet in, I had to putt some small nuts around the shaft to get the rivet tool to work without crushing the track. These leave a small ridge around the top of the recessed rivet that isn't right. Is there a better way to get the reach needed? Do they make rivet sleeves of steel or anything that will let the rivet tool get the reach into the track?

- When I put the old top half of the car onto the new bottom half of the car, there was not a good fit. I was able to force it in, but that left the bottom of the car with a small arc which prevents it from sliding thru the track. I assume that it's ok to trim the top car with some sandpaper or a knife to fit better? Has anyone else seen this issue?

Is it going to be easier for me to swap out the rear crossbar than to remove and replace the rear track? If the rivet holes line up and I can find a good method to install the rivets, replacement should be a breeze. Replacing the rear crossbar seems like a lot of work. Not having done either, I look to words of wisdom from those who have.

I leave Thursday for CRAM Caseville 1 and need to get it worked out quickly.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

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