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| Another Trentec jib car question http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=45544 |
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| Author: | jimrude [ Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Another Trentec jib car question |
So we bought an old 1981 H16, and ordered the replacement/upgrade parts from our Hobie dealer and Murray's. Unfortunately, despite the size ($$$) of our order, the Hobie dealer was unable help with any installation. I suspect this is because they're a new dealer and may well never have seen a Hobie until mine (excluding the floor model for sale)... In any event, I'm a bit confused as to the positioning of the small cam cleats for the jib traveler control system. The diagram in this post: http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3863 shows them located close to the mast, and has the jib traveler control lines running through a padeye behind the mast. The two lines criss-cross to the opposite shrouds. If I look at the Hobie catalog at the "jib traveler trim kit", though, the control lines run from the outer Trentec hole through a cheek block on the corner casting, along the front of the crossbar and through the cam cleat (and I suppose to the opposite shroud). Are these just "two ways of doing the same thing"? Or am I seeing something incorrectly? Thanks! |
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| Author: | rattle 'n hum [ Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Another Trentec jib car question |
My 2 cents... Does look like two ways to accomplish the same purpose. I've never seen one rigged with the control lines crossing in front of the mast through the padeye. (I have seen the return shock cord run through a padeye in that location.) This routing would seem to cause more friction and require more line, but maybe there are advantages. In the latter scenario, the cheek block should be mounted further aft (than in the former scenario), so that the line from the car enters the front of the cheek block and exits the back to the lance/camcleat (with the bitter end cris-crossing the opposite traveller line then tied to the opposite shroud as you supposed). I'm not sure how far my camcleats are from the mast...maybe half way to the corner? Make sure the jib sheet is rigged on top of the traveller control lines. Also, I'd suggest "mocking" it all up to make sure it looks right before doing any drilling/riveting. Hope this helps. |
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| Author: | jimrude [ Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Another Trentec jib car question |
rattle 'n hum wrote: My 2 cents... Does look like two ways to accomplish the same purpose. I've never seen one rigged with the control lines crossing in front of the mast through the padeye. (I have seen the return shock cord run through a padeye in that location.) This routing would seem to cause more friction and require more line, but maybe there are advantages. In the latter scenario, the cheek block should be mounted further aft (than in the former scenario), so that the line from the car enters the front of the cheek block and exits the back to the lance/camcleat (with the bitter end cris-crossing the opposite traveller line then tied to the opposite shroud as you supposed). I'm not sure how far my camcleats are from the mast...maybe half way to the corner? Make sure the jib sheet is rigged on top of the traveller control lines. Also, I'd suggest "mocking" it all up to make sure it looks right before doing any drilling/riveting. Hope this helps. Jerome - Thanks for this! Any suggestions on drilling/riveting? I'm also replacing my original (worn out) swivel cams with new Harken 240s. Are these drilled in with self-tapping screws?? |
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