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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 9:05 am 
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1993 H-16 "Formula 1". Need to find the best way to remove 2 layers of hard annodized paint down to aluminum. What is the best priming and painting procedure to use for the entire boat? If you have done this before call me: 201-896-0423 Rich


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 7:11 pm 
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Don't repaint the hulls. For the aluminum parts, just leave it alone. For the gel coat on the hulls, wet sand starting at 400 is the oxidation is really bad, then move to 600, then 800, 1000, 1200. then get a orbital polisher and buff with 3m finesse it II. It is time consuming, but works wonders and made my '83 boat look new from looking like a used chalkboard.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 7:31 pm 
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He is referring to a "Formula" edition boat from the early nineties. The aluminum components were powder coated white rather than the normal clear or black anodize. Unfortunately, I think you will be in for a huge amount of work to strip off all that powder coat. Maybe it could be sand blasted off but most likely way more work, time, and expense than it's worth. You would be better off scavenging anodized aluminum hardware from a parts boat on craigslist than trying to strip and repaint your exiting parts. At least, that's my opinion.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:35 am 
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That stuff is a pain to sand off. Tried once on a mountain bike. Almost impossible.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:47 am 
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I spray painted the aluminum parts (that you see black ~ boom, mast, spi pole, e.t.c.) with Krylon black primer. Paint in warm temps. Goes on smooth and wears well.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 4:00 am 
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We strip powder coated wheels with Aviation aircraft paint stripper, works nice.

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79 H16
BuxtonsAutohaus.com


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 8:27 pm 
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buxton wrote:
We strip powder coated wheels with Aviation aircraft paint stripper, works nice.
At $60/gallon, it better.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip- ... doxdPmko20


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:21 pm 
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Location: Bend, OR
Media blasting is the preferred method for removing powdercoating, but pretty difficult to DIY. A pro wouldn't charge that much to clean up all of your parts though, and the time savings may be worth it (depends on what you value you time at).


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:19 am 
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[/quote]At $60/gallon, it better.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip- ... doxdPmko20[/quote]

Ya, OK a gallon might seem hi priced to some, but I've had a gallon for almost 5 years, stripped 23 15" race wheels, one toyota truck cab's complete exterior and have about 1 cup left. Takes very little time to do and works great. Plus it keeps working so as you remove it from one piece, take that and start putting it on the next.
Was paying $20 ea to get wheels blasted and then another 20 to re-due the powder coating. Now only pay $22 to re-coat wheels. Plus when ever you get something blasted, it removes some of the base material.

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Buxton, 11' H16 White w/ Coronado Sails: "White Lightning"
79 H16
BuxtonsAutohaus.com


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 12:33 pm 
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srm wrote:
He is referring to a "Formula" edition boat from the early nineties. The aluminum components were powder coated white rather than the normal clear or black anodize. Unfortunately, I think you will be in for a huge amount of work to strip off all that powder coat. Maybe it could be sand blasted off but most likely way more work, time, and expense than it's worth. You would be better off scavenging anodized aluminum hardware from a parts boat on craigslist than trying to strip and repaint your exiting parts. At least, that's my opinion.

sm

I'm not into a super long project, so buying used aluminum mast is good idea. Then I can just sand it before painting.
I'll be looking for prices this week, I wonder if all the older H-16 models will be the same as my 1993 H-16 Formula-1.
Great Regetta this past weekend at Sandy Hook, NJ


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