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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 7:51 am 
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Location: NC
I’ve got an issue on my H16 in which the old style jib traveler track keeps coming loose on the end near the mast base. I use the KISME IT traveler cars from Murry’s. I have already gone up a size for the machine screw and I even tried using a little thickened epoxy under the track when I added the larger screw last time. I can probably go up a screw size one more time, but I worry that the aluminum has just wollered out so much that it may be to no avail. I do have another crossbar, but my frame is epoxied together and I’d rather not have to re-do all of that.

So, my thought was to add a small metal strap over the machine screw on the inboard side of the traveler. I would have to drill two small holes forward and aft of the track. Should I worry about this weakening the cross bar? I figure that way the load would be spread out over three screws instead of just the one. It is only the inboard side that gives me problems. What do ya’ll think?

Naturally, the last time it came loose was during the starting sequence of a race.

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James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:33 am 
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Location: Clearwater, FL
James,

I also had problems with this several years ago so I replaced the screws with rivets. Since then all has been fine.

If you look at the attached photo (under the hog ring of the shock cord) you can see the top of the pan head rivet.

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Tim
82' H16
Sail # 88863
Clearwater, FL
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:35 am 
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You can move the whole track inboard a half inch (+/-) and re-rivet. I would mark the proper car position and then place something (inboard stopper) in the track to maintain that position with the new track location.

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Matt Miller
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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 11:15 am 
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Thanks! Those are both good ideas. I had thought to move the track over a bit, but wondered if it would make a difference. I don't see how traveling a half inch less downwind would change much, but you guys are the gurus. I may try the large rivet first as it is the least involved and intrusive.

Matt, would you advise against the metal strap idea? I don't have the right kind of gun to pop rivits on the inside of the track.

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James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 11:38 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
The strap under would lift the track a fraction but makes some sense. You add corrosion points.

To rivet into the track... you can add small hex nuts over the rivet shaft to extend the tip reach. Slide a nut over the rivet shaft before inserting into the gun. Places the pressure on the rivet head that you need for a tight rivet.

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Matt Miller
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 11:59 am 
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Thanks, Matt! Great advice on riveting. I was actually thinking of placing the strap on top of the track, just over the black insert. It would have to be an inverted U type shape. That way the upward force with the car inboard would be spread along three points. It may be hard to fashion a piece of metal that would fit that shape though. It was just one of the first ideas I had. I will try replacing the screw with a large rivet first. If that fails, I may move the track. If you don't think the strap idea is bad I may try that first just because it would be less drilling/riveting. I figure the fewer holes in the aluminum the better.

One day I hope to just buy a brand, spankin new hobie all together and take care of it all at once :D . Until then I'll just have to make it work. I love my little junk yard boat though.

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James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 5:25 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:26 pm
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Location: Harsens Island, Michigan
Here's to junkyard boats! To all you readers, beware! Once you get hooked on into hobie sailing you will realize that it would have been cheaper to buy a more expensive hobie that already has all the upgrades that you will eventually want!

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Steve
1979 Hobie 16 "Orange Crusher"
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 2:08 pm 
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Well... I replaced the screw with a large SS rivet and added a machine screw in some fresh aluminum, but ultimately it didn't hold. It held for two races yesterday, but today was just too much. We were racing in single trap conditions today. Tacking over to starboard on the layline to A mark and she ripped out again about halfway down the track. It made for a pretty hairy transition to downwind.

I have an old track that I can use to replace this one. My question now... can I just thru-bolt it? I'm only thinking about thru-bolting the little black insert that goes into the inboard portion of the track. I'll re-rivet the rest of it. If this isn't a good idea, please let me know.

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James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909


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