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 Post subject: Rigging simplified
PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:46 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2013 3:34 pm
Posts: 13
Location: Parker, CO
I bought a '74 Hobie last September that hasn't been in the water for 8 years, and it's been awhile since I've set up a Hobie.

I would like to know what some people have done to simplify rigging. My boat has a number of clevis pins and split rings, and setting it up and breaking it down can be a chore sometimes trying to get those split rings opened up. I've bought some ring dings, but even those can be a pain. I'm getting tired of dropping the rings in the sand or water and having to walk up to my parts box for a replacement.

At the same time I don't want to install a shackle or other hardware that would be wrong for that application and lead to a rigging failure.

Namely I'd like to know a better way to:

1) Secure the forestay (new forestay; has thimbles on each end)
2) Attach the Main Sheet block to the traveler
3) Attach the tiller extension
4) Attach the jib halyards to the clew plate
5) Adjust the side shrouds

Thanks for reading.

_________________
1974 Hobie 16
Sail #44677 (Sails maybe from a newer boat as they are the Keoke design which wasn't available until 1978)


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 Post subject: Re: Rigging simplified
PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2013 12:04 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 4:27 pm
Posts: 553
Location: Central Oregon
1. quick pin (I trailer boat to lakes use quick pin in 2nd hole from top with the shackle that I use to hook the jib in top hole as backup to get to water from parking lot)
2. quick pin for traveler, snap shackle for boom end.
3. quick pin
4. shackle
5. leave them and trap cables attached while trailering...stuff cables into tramp lacing. Not sure why you would need to adjust?

good ol video on 16 rigging...

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1980 H16
1997 Wave


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 Post subject: Re: Rigging simplified
PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2013 3:41 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:00 pm
Posts: 293
Location: Charlottesville, VA
On the mast tang, you use two shackles: a big one for the shrouds, forestay and jib and a smaller one for the trap lines. These stay in place, so there's no need to make them easier to remove. The shroud adjusters also stay in place; they need to be very strong and reliable so you don't want to use anything that's not solid. Pins and rings with a shroud cover (or tape) over them.

  • Solid ball pin (on a leash) for the forestay to the adjuster.
  • Quick pin (pushbutton) for the mainsheet block to traveler.
  • Clevis and ring for the tiller extension, but that's just because I don't have another quick pin
  • Regular shackle for jib clew, although I'd love to find a faster solution. Maybe there's a captive-pin shackle I can use here.
  • Captive-pin shackle (similar to main halyard) for the Jib halyard to the jib head

There's a lot that you can do in the setup and takedown to simplify things. For instance, I run the shrouds/forestay/traps along the mast and through the mast holder on the trailer. The shrouds are the right length so that I don't need to tie them off anywhere else (I'll get a picture of this). The forestay and traps arc back and I tie them off with a jib sheet.

How far do you trailer the boat?

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'00 H16 #104691 - '78 H16 #32692 ex-rental - Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages


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 Post subject: Re: Rigging simplified
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 7:21 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2013 3:34 pm
Posts: 13
Location: Parker, CO
I don't trailer the boat very far; 10 miles each way maybe.

I only have one hole on my mast tang, so I have to cram trap wires and shrouds onto one shackle. I've seen two-hole mast tangs; I assume it would be advisable to replace my single-hole mast tang.

I only ask about being able to easily adjust the shrouds because adding a different method of securing the forestay may change its length, which then changes the attachment point of the shrouds.

Which leads me to a second question: how does the amount of mast rake affect the boat's ability to sail closer to the wind?

Thanks for the input.

_________________
1974 Hobie 16
Sail #44677 (Sails maybe from a newer boat as they are the Keoke design which wasn't available until 1978)


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 Post subject: Re: Rigging simplified
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:58 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:00 pm
Posts: 293
Location: Charlottesville, VA
FishSniper wrote:
I don't trailer the boat very far; 10 miles each way maybe.


Then I think my minimalist method of shroud tiedown will work well, if your trailer cooperates. If not, you can probably do something similar by strapping the stays and trap lines to the mast. The main thing is, once you have your rig adjusted the way you want it you shouldn't need to disconnect anything but the bottom of the forestay.

I would sure replace that mast tang with the 2-hole one.

I believe more rake means better pointing but the original blocks and mast step will not tolerate extreme rake.

_________________
'00 H16 #104691 - '78 H16 #32692 ex-rental - Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages


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