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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 6:38 pm 
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***I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed. I've read many threads on the topic but don't see what I was looking for.***

I'm adding a jib traveler trim system to my 16 that has integrated tracks and low profile one-piece cars. I have all the parts and I'm using non-swivel cam cleats. The layout for these systems seem to vary a great deal and I have a few questions for the experienced folks out there before I start drilling holes. I plan to sail with crew most of the time so I'm not looking for a solo set up.

1. Is it best to put the trim adjustment cleat near the corner casting or closer to the mast? Pro/cons of each?

2. Do I really need a pad eye in front of the mast to route the shock cord through or can i just loop it behind the striker bar?

3. What's the best setup for routing the traveler control line(s) and why?
- Use two lines and leave the ends loose.
- Use two lines and tie the ends off at a pad eye under side rail.
- Use a single line loop and use one end for each traveler
- Split the Jib sheet - use one end as the sheet and the other for the traveler

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 7:31 pm 
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I have my jib sheet split with each side running to the traveler... The only downside is that the lazy jib sheet isn't automatically in your hand... This makes solo tacking just a bit more complicated, and the crew can't pull in the lazy sheet without coming in off the wire and grabbing it if you are really hammering through fast tacks... But I find it really helps newbie crew.... and traveling at the marks is easier for more advanced crew.. and it keeps the tramp much more tidy... Things seem to foul up less often. and with different colors explaining things is simpler as new crew can just pull on the red line instead of the port Jib sheet.... Ect....


For the return system I have just switched to using two pieces of Shock cord... One from each jib car running to the corner casting on the opposite side of the boat. I have found it you can more easily set enough return pressure without really having to pull on the traveler if both cars are all the way out. and the pressure is more even, and I suspect it will have to be replaced or adjusted less often.

I just have run the shock cord behind the striker bar.


My jib traveler cleats are near the mast.. and seem to be angled just right.. I can set or release them from anywhere... I would think if you had the cleats further outboard they would be more difficult to cleat and uncleat from the wire....

The Jib cars are the fixed cleats without a fairlead over the cleats so the jib sheet can be left out of the reach of the cleats... I LOVE that setup.. I didn't think I would at first.. but I really like it..

I ain't the most experienced, nor the best sailor on the forum... But I really like my setup and so does everyone who has taken my boat out.. I also will say I find myself mildly annoyed on other boats with 'perceived' lesser setups... :)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 6:02 am 
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Thanks! I'm debating the options. I wish there was an easy way to try a set up and rearrange what I don't like. Once you drill holes you're stuck with it.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 10:49 am 
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I use the two pieces of shock cord for the traveler return as well....works great. Mine are tied to the sections of striker bar that go through the corner castings....they aren't run through or behind anything.

I like the two sperate traveller control lines with end tied to the opposite shroud. With two lines, you can get green and red for easier ID and communication with inexperienced crew. Easy to access at shroud end, too...even from the wire.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 3:49 pm 
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This may be a stupid question, but I have to ask anyway. These jib travellor setups have the bungie pulling the car inward and a rope holding it outward when needed. Wouldn't it make more sense for the bungie to pull outward and the rope to pull inward? Seems that way the wind wouldn't be working against the bungie, but the rope. Am I missing something? OK, that's two questions.

Need to know,
Fred


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:16 am 
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FASTFREDDY wrote:
Wouldn't it make more sense for the bungie to pull outward and the rope to pull inward? Seems that way the wind wouldn't be working against the bungie, but the rope. Am I missing something? OK, that's two questions.
Fred
The wind doesn't blow the traveler car out because the sheet tension keeps it up to center (you must ease the sheet to travel out). The bungee is just there to pull the car up to center when there's no sheet tension.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 4:11 pm 
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Got it. Makes sense.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 11:12 am 
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are the new boats not using a bungee return line? It looks like the worlds boats have no bungee. and the jib cars have no bungee attach point. is this correct?


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 Post subject: The Worlds Boats
PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 1:28 pm 
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They had bungees


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:30 pm 
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http://hobieworlds.com/sites/hobieworld ... k=Ds10Y6yL


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:00 pm 
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gino wrote:
http://hobieworlds.com/sites/hobieworlds.com/files/styles/large/public/open_FINAL_DAY1_0044_HCA_4067_1.jpg?itok=Ds10Y6yL

The bungee is run through the track part of the extrusion, underneath the mast step casting. You can just barely see it leaving the jib traveler car and entering the track.

And TKorz was there. He has first-hand knowledge.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:59 pm 
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MBounds wrote:
gino wrote:
http://hobieworlds.com/sites/hobieworlds.com/files/styles/large/public/open_FINAL_DAY1_0044_HCA_4067_1.jpg?itok=Ds10Y6yL

The bungee is run through the track part of the extrusion, underneath the mast step casting. You can just barely see it leaving the jib traveler car and entering the track.

And TKorz was there. He has first-hand knowledge.


Humm... That is a clean solution!

Although I still stand by separating the cars, and using two pieces of cord.. I sailed a brand new boat today (well not 'brand new, Enrique's charter from Nats) and it had the stock setup... and it just isn't the same as having two pieces of cord. The tension IMO just isn't as nice.. To light with the cars inboard and to heavy with them both outboard..

i just might have to try running each piece under the mast though.... The cord would be a bit shorter, but could be ended at car stop... humm...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:58 pm 
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Excuse the mess, it is raining an junk is falling from the trees. (the cover is next up)

Here is my setup. I had to move the shockcord under the mast, I just had to...

Fed the cord around the factory car stop in the track and tied off a stopper knot. This isn't a problem for the cord getting worn because I very rarely ever travel the jib all the way in, and my stopper ball (formerly a knot) prevents the car from ever reaching the factory stop..


Image

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 4:07 pm 
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That's an awesome setup Ron. I may be copying.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:26 pm 
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PurdueZach wrote:
That's an awesome setup Ron. I may be copying.


Just a brummel splice on the lines to change line size.. FYI... But because my traveler line (also swiftcord) was so much smaller I couldn't tuck the 7mm line into it... So I just tucked it back into itself.. Sealed the deal with a bit of heat shrink under the stopper ball just because.. This could just as easily be done with a fisherman's knot.. but wouldn't look as cool, and couldn't be described to new crew as "the end with the white ball"....

Most of the things I have done to the boat to get ready for this season revolve around being able to teach someone to crew for me in minutes (hence the labeled traveler :) ) In at least half my races last year my crew had never sailed before, and the other half I was sailing with inexperienced crew... Only once all summer did I have the pleasure of racing with skilled crew.. So making things easy to learn, and explain is critical for me.. :D

The only problem I may have is the traveler line I am using is small enough that if tension was lost for whatever reason I think it would be possible for it to jump off the sheave and become pinned over or under the sheave.


And I should add.. for those who wish to split the jib sheet.. I don't know exactly what the Jib sheet length is or should be with this setup. Right now mine is a bit long, and with the stock line lengths it did require some amount of traveler line to be just long enough... IIRC it was on downwind runs that often I would have to travel the jib in on the lazy side just a wee bit to trim things up just right on the working side...


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