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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:06 am 
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Hi,

Appologies for this noob questions!
It appears I have a Harken Ratchamatic block on my 6:1 presume this is standard?
It looks similar to 57 mm Triple Ratchamatic® Block — Swivel, Cam Cleat Part No. 2629 but much older.

So reading on on the Harken website it states that:
The Carbo Ratchamatic® is a load-sensing ratchet block that rolls freely in both directions under low loads and automatically engages the ratchet as loads increase. Shifting between ratchet and light-air modes is seamless.

So how does this work when one needs to release the sheet in a hurry as to prevent a capsize?
Would the block not engage the ratchet those stopping sheet release in such a situation?

Thanks,
SRG


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:26 am 
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Ratchets don't stop the release, they just cause drag.

You may have a control on the side of the block to turn it on and off. Off for better feel in lighter and puffy conditions. On to help hold some of the sheet load.

If automatic... fully releasing the sheet reduces the load and could release the auto ratchet. I've never used an auto ratchet on the main and would think it would be uncomfortable not knowing when it was going to freely run out.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:59 am 
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Location: Clinton, Mississippi
The ratchamatic has an adjustment for the load at which the ratchet in the center pulley engages. It immediately allows the center pulley to run free in both directions when the load goes below the adjusted amount. I have the ratchamatic but honestly have never felt that the ratchet on any H16 system made it significantly easier to hand-hold a heavily loaded sheet. Much more important to have the sheet play out quickly when needed. Before I got the ratchamatic, my ratchet was always turned off.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 11:49 am 
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Correctly working... ratchet is a must in my opinion. Flying a hull double trap. Takes a huge load off your hand.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 5:01 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
I have the traditional Harken 194 manual ratchet on my 16:
Image

and the Harken Carbo Ratchamatic 2612 on my 17 and 14:
Image

Properly adjusted, the 2612's ratchet only releases when the line goes slack - really important on the uni-rigged boats in a tack, when you need to dump several feet of sheet to prevent going into irons. It makes tacking much more civilized.

The Carbo Ratchamatics haven't been around that long - less than 15 years - so it's unlikely you would find them on an "old" boat.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 1:42 am 
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Sorry folks I was incorrect in thinking I had Harken Carbo Ratchamatic thanks to MBounds posting the photo above I can confirm that I actually have Harken 194 manual ratchet on my H16.

Is there a technique in setting these up?

Thanks for your replies.
SRG


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 5:11 am 
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paragon1970 wrote:
I can confirm that I actually have Harken 194 manual ratchet on my H16.

Is there a technique in setting these up?

SRG

Not really. I leave the ratchet on 95% of the time and only turn it off in very light air. The on/off switch is a little slide mechanism on the side. I should note that I use a very flexible (New England Ropes Salsa) 5/16" sheet line (8 mm), which runs through the blocks very smoothly.

If you're looking for a comparable line to Salsa in the UK, look for a 12-strand, single braid, Dyneema/spin polyester blend line.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 1:37 pm 
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paragon1970 wrote:
Sorry folks I was incorrect in thinking I had Harken Carbo Ratchamatic thanks to MBounds posting the photo above I can confirm that I actually have Harken 194 manual ratchet on my H16.

Is there a technique in setting these up?

Thanks for your replies.
SRG


Loosen screws on the side to adjust angle of jaw, then retighten. It should be high enough to easily uncleat sitting on tramp, but not so high that it's hard to cleat from the trapeze.

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Jerome Vaughan
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 1:50 pm 
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Is the H194 the same one that has come on all hobies since they started suppling them with 6:1 mainsheet (Mid 80's?)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:46 pm 
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sxrracer wrote:
Is the H194 the same one that has come on all hobies since they started suppling them with 6:1 mainsheet (Mid 80's?)
Yes.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 3:09 pm 
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On a somewhat related topic - I try to use the ratchet most of the time, but the cam height adjustment screws in the side of my H194 are completely stuck. The cams are too low and it tends to grab the sheet when I don't want it to. Anyone know a good trick to freeing them up w/o damage? I've tried the usual standby, PB Blaster, but that didn't work.

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94' H16 - 114050
www.HobieFleet97.org
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 3:58 pm 
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MBounds wrote:
sxrracer wrote:
Is the H194 the same one that has come on all hobies since they started suppling them with 6:1 mainsheet (Mid 80's?)
Yes.

Never seen a lever on mine to engage a rachet.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 5:12 pm 
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Usually a tear drop shape knob you twist or a straight up and down shaft you simply move up or down.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 5:14 pm 
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sxrracer wrote:
MBounds wrote:
sxrracer wrote:
Is the H194 the same one that has come on all hobies since they started suppling them with 6:1 mainsheet (Mid 80's?)
Yes.

Never seen a lever on mine to engage a rachet.

It's not a lever. It's a little black plastic slide. You can see it in the above photo.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 9:59 am 
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GD_NC wrote:
On a somewhat related topic - I try to use the ratchet most of the time, but the cam height adjustment screws in the side of my H194 are completely stuck. The cams are too low and it tends to grab the sheet when I don't want it to. Anyone know a good trick to freeing them up w/o damage? I've tried the usual standby, PB Blaster, but that didn't work.


I had that happen.....even sheared the head off. Was eventually able to get it w/PB Blaster. Maybe tap with impact driver, PB, repeat? Heat may help, but you'd need to be very careful with a flame. I recently read that, to free up a stuck ratchamatic, it helps to soak in very hot water....that may help. If nothing else, Harken sells a 10 or 15 degree wedge that you can put under the 150 cam cleat. Good luck!

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16


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