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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 12:01 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2013 2:43 am
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Looking for some advice with replacing a die cast gudgeon on a 2007 model H16. The gudgeon itself is structurally fine but I noticed today that the upper rudder pin hole has been broken. So my question relates to the locking gudgeon screws which work simular to a nylock nut into the aluminium transom plate.

Has anybody replaced theirs?
Did they require new locking gudgeon screws or did they simply re-use the existing ones?
Any issues I should consider or plan for?
And did you use Loctite on the screws upon refitting?

Cheers in advance, Matt

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2007 H16 - 'Slingshot' 110009/110678


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:08 am 
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Location: Virginia Beach VA
I bought all new gudgeon screws from Hobie. Its a small expense. I also tapped out the holes to clean up the threads (#12-28 I think) and used 3M 5200 since these are hull penetrations below the waterline. (At the time Loctite did not make any marine products.) Your biggest task will be getting the old screws out especially if the boat has spent any time in salt water. Might want to have some easy-outs on hand. The heads strip out pretty easily and sometimes even break off.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:07 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
sunvista wrote:
I bought all new gudgeon screws from Hobie. Its a small expense. I also tapped out the holes to clean up the threads (#12-28 I think) and used 3M 5200 since these are hull penetrations below the waterline. (At the time Loctite did not make any marine products.) Your biggest task will be getting the old screws out especially if the boat has spent any time in salt water. Might want to have some easy-outs on hand. The heads strip out pretty easily and sometimes even break off.

That's a bit of overkill.

Don't use 5200 if you ever want to get something apart again. 5200 = forever stuck together.

You can re-use the machine screws. A 2007 boat shouldn't be corroded tight (mine certainly isn't, but I sail mostly in fresh water).

Use a bit of regular silicone seal around each screw. Periodically check the screws to make sure they aren't loose. Go sailing!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 11:02 pm 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Cheers for your responses. Trial and error will be the theme here. I haven't tried removing the screws just yet but assume them to be....ok. I do sail often in the ocean but clean well after use. I'll just try some silicone seal upon re-fitting the screws and keep an eye on them afterwards. I'll make the most of this and replace the casting brushing at the same time.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:35 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
One of the keys to loosening tight gudgeon screws is to use a screw driver that fits the screw head really well. If the tip of your screw driver is worn or is too small, it will jump out of the screw head and you'll end up rounding out the screw. I was disassembling the gudgeons on my 1985 boat (which has been ocean sailed and stored on the beach) recently and although some of the screws were very tight, I managed to get them apart by using a brand new #3 screw driver tip in my screw driver. It's also helpful if you use a screw driver with a large, comfortable grip.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:46 pm 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
I know all too well about tight screws i.e. using the correct size and using a high torque system rather than a small screw driver, cheers.

I've ordered the goods and some extra screws just in case I need replacements. My Hobie dealer also suggested that I use the new Euro brushings? as opposed to the standard Hobie ones 'casting brushing'. Does anybody have any experience with these?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:26 pm
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Location: Harsens Island, Michigan
I have not had a need yet to do this, but one GREAT tool for loosening oxidized screws is an impact driver. They are cheap, about $10 and work great. They come with the bigger screwdriver bits and are great for breaking them free so that you can use a normal screwdriver on them to finish removal.

Just align it in the screw, put some tension on it and whack it with a hammer. After a couple of whacks the screw will be free and damage free.

I find that there are 2 kinds of people, those who have never used one, and those who can't believe they ever tried living without using one.

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1979 Hobie 16 "Orange Crusher"
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2013 2:43 am
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Just an update,
Screws removed effortlessly and the install of a new gudgeon is all done. Used a ratchet wrench with screw driver attachments, ended up overkill really but did a nice clean job. Very happy with the result and the rudders are now super tight and smooth with new Euro brush castings and rudder stiffening kit. I used new locking gudgeon screws to ensure a clean install as the old ones did have minor visible signs consistent with being used. Silicone used on gudgeon and screws too.

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