Jib Hayard Tension too low

Hy,
On my 97´Hobie 16 I cant manage to put enough tension on the jib halyard - as strong as i pull, i can always put the mainsheet block-to-block very easily, which i think is way too slack. also my boom hangs very low, but i think thats partly from the sail which already has a big 'belly'.
is my hayard line too old? the main-shrouds are right i think, also i put the jib on the jib tack on the 3rd hole from below - the jib sheet is already touching the metal of the tack.. i watched other hobie 16 guys righting the mast and all they have to do is pull a bit on the halyard and there it is. compared to them my mast is very much leened to the back.. i once was shown how much halyard tension i need and marked that position on the halyard, the guy mainly - as explained here on the forum - pulled it so much that the mast wasnt slack and a bit more and marked that position - but with that halyard tension i barely can slip under the mainsheet when tacking..
what am i doing wrong? thx!

Is your mainsail up all the way and the halyard slug engaged in the fork at the top of the mast? Your statement that the mainsail has a lot of belly leads me to think you are not hoisting your main up all the way and locking it in.

Are you rigging your jib halyard with a 3:1 purchase? You will not be able to get adequate tension on the halyard without this purchase. Is your jib halyard a low stretch line?

When you tension your jib halyard, are you taking all the slack out of the side shrouds?

If the jib halyard is tensioned so that you're taking all the slack out of the shrouds and you still have too much mast rake, then you need to move the shrouds up in the adjuster plates so your mast stands more upright.

sm

the slug is engaged in the fork. i have two slugs, one for the reefing position and the second one for normal sailing. the second one is locked in.

i dont hava a 3:1 purchase and i dont know if the line is low-stretch, will check that out!
the side shrouds are so tensioned i can lean on the one on luv while on the boat.
so i will try the shrouds too again. thanks a lot!

Review the H16 FAQ: http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=12697

Manual and video shows jib rigging. There is a 3:1 and you still need significant effort to get a tight rig.

At about time code 11:30 you see the point where the jib is hoisted and tensioned.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

You do need that purchase to put some strong tension on the jib halyard. Don't you have that little cheek block on the port side of your mast near bottom? Take your halyard down thru that, back up to little pulley on your halyard line then back down to the cleat where you hold it very tight with one hand while you tie on to cleat with the other. If you don't have that cheek block you can temporarily run the halyard thru the hole in middle of the cleat and use the same process. I tightened mine as tight as I could get it but loose enough that the mast still rotates freely. Definitely use low stretch "static" line.

_________________
Tim Grover

Memphis, TN fleet 134
Hobie 20! G-Cat5.0 and 2 Hobie 14's
Photobucket now wants $100 to post pics on forums......... pass.

great tips, thanks! no i dont have that line system of the video, but that seems to be hell of a cool thing !
my actual system is "run the halyard thru the hole in middle of the cleat " and pull as strong as you can...

@fxloop: i dont think my mast ah a cheeck block, but i am not sure i already got it. do you have any pics of that?

3:1 was stock as shown in the video.

In the manual there is a shot showing it: http://static.hobiecat.com/digital_assets/H16_Manual.pdf

Page 18 lower left.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

If you had a helper available, they could stand on the tramp and push forward on the mast while you tightened and secured the the jib halyard.

Sounds like you need to move the shrouds up a hole or two.

Rudi,

I took a pic of the part that is used to make the 3:1 purchase. I'll post a pic for you when I get home from work. You should be able to create the 3:1 purchase with the standard parts.

_________________
James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909

Picture of the downhaul block:
http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jsaut ... state=copy

Picture of the setup to tension the jib halyard:
http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jsaut ... state=copy

First, make sure you have adjusted the shrouds to the lowest possible position on each 7-hole stay adjuster. I typically set them at the highest position to raise the mast and make it easier to attache the forestay. Then, having someone else pulling on the trap handles or putting on your harness and attaching yourself to the mast to use your weight as an anchor, pull on the rig and readjust the pin in the stay adjuster to tighten the shrouds.

A line runs from the bottom of the block in the photo. When you raise your jib, run the line through the cheek block (metal piece, below the cleat) on the port side of the mast (as if you were on the boat looking at the mast), take it through the downhaul block. Pull downward on the line to tension the rig. Then, cleat it off. I usually run back around the bottom of the cheek block and the top of the cleat.

Hope this helps.

_________________
James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909