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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:42 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MICHIGAN
I bought 2 boats over the past couple months. Have no training on them - just bought em - raised the mast - put em in the water and WENT. So learning as I go - mainly from trial and error and a little logic. Been a blast!
This last weekend was really weak as far as wind conditions, so I shot some snapshots. Mainly because I wanted to know what the two white lines do. One to each of those tracks on the front rail. What is the purpose of these adjustments... surely to limit the travel of the jib - but to what end? I tried them set inward - and outward and didn't see any difference in performance. When do we move them in or out? and to gain/loose what? And why the white cords on mine? These cords cross - then tied to each side shroud line. (Old owner past away and selling had no idea what a hobie cat is).

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More pics

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The main sheet was rigged like this, one wheel really wasn't being used, so I moved the block that has the tie/post from the top to the bottom and now all pulley wheels are in use... this is before as he had it.

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Logic said - swap the top and bottom blocks to tie it to the bottom allowing the 2nd top pulley wheel actually do something. So my after

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other pics

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Not sure if this heron likes to guard the hobies or is bowing to them - he does this a lot.

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I wanted a higher handle to pull back in on while on the trap - I used these stainless "STOPS" on the shroud to keep the Hobie screw on handles at a higher place. I want to cut the extra screws with my dwemel - and maybe put a shrink wrap around them. IDEALLY - would be cool if Hobie designed a stop/screw on handle like this with a diameter that allowed the stopper to be inserted inside the handle as you screw the two pieces together (hint hint hobie)

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finally got my cams and rudders locking - but I'm sure they're not adjusted properly. I read about adjusting the cam, spring tension and the top screw for rudder rake, but it refers to a BOLT and I have no idea where that bolt is that is mentioned in the instructions. (instructions are very devoid of illustrations/photos - It's 2009 Hobie!)

Anyway I sure which I knew how to adjust the rudders. There is a lot of slop in them. I don't think the rudder rake metal tab thing in the housing is adjusted right, the rudder when locked has a lot of play (fore/aft) in the rudder itself. I can't find any good documentation with illustrations or photos that explain how to set rake and adjust the rudders.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:07 am 
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I'm glad you are out there having fun on your new toys! I really would suggest you buy the book Catamaran sailing from start to finish.. it's a great resource!

As for those white lines on the jib travelers, I'm not sure those would even work.. you have to pull up on the button to release the lock, don't you? As for what position to have the jib in.. it all depends on wind conditions (strength, direction, etc.)

Are you missing a tiller?

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1982 H16 (C:\Worthy)
Yellow/White Prism type sails


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:37 am 
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On the jib traveler... You are missing the bungee that pulls the cars to center. The traveler line and cleat pulls them outboard and the bungee pulls back towards the mast. You can use a single length between the two cars or two separate lengths from each car to opposite corner casting.

Leave them close to the mast for upwind sailing and all the way outboard for down wind sailing. Some high wind techniques call for moving the car outboard a bit when sailing upwind.

The cam and rake adjustments are clearly written in our Sailing FAQ topic: http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewforum.php?f=18

Specifically: "Rudders - Cams / Rake / Alignment " http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=467

The adjuster plate "bolt" is shown in your photo here:

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As written in the cam instructions...

Quote:
To adjust the upper plate, lock the rudder down and hold the rudder firmly against the lower casting (forward most position). Loosen the upper plate then back it away from the cam a little. You want to seat the plate tight against the cam (in the fully locked position) while holding the rudder forward in the lower casting. Ease the plate forward while wiggling the upper arm up and down just a bit. The idea is to find the point of deepest insert that the upper plate can get into the cam. That may mean that the upper casting is not touching the lower casting. Don't force the plate too far forward as this will begin to force the cam open. When tightening the plate, be sure the plate doesn't move. I usually tighten with the wrench handle rotating forward towards the cam to move the plate forward if anything.


Mainsheet system looks good, set up now as 6:1.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 1:53 pm 
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Location: Virginia
Quote:
As for those white lines on the jib travelers, I'm not sure those would even work.. you have to pull up on the button to release the lock, don't you?


I believe the line that is attachd to the jib car should be tightened around the shaft of the locking mechanism. Pull the locking pin up, tie a tight not around the shaft, and then the line will keep the locking pin from re-engaging the track. This will allow the cars to slide back and forth in the track with no issues. The bungee Matt talked about will keep them wanting to pull inward. The line will then allow you to adjust them outboard as much as you desire.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 2:01 pm 
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Yes, tight knot holds the pin up (unlocked) or use a hog ring crimped under the pull tab to hold it up. For the traveler line and bungee to work, the car needs to slide freely.

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Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 5:41 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MICHIGAN
Quote:
I'm glad you are out there having fun on your new toys! I really would suggest you buy the book Catamaran sailing from start to finish.. it's a great resource!

As for those white lines on the jib travelers, I'm not sure those would even work.. you have to pull up on the button to release the lock, don't you? As for what position to have the jib in.. it all depends on wind conditions (strength, direction, etc.)

Are you missing a tiller?


Yes will get the book when my business busy season slows this fall. I don't understand the white cord either. YES you need to release the pin to make them adjust however You can get the white cord stuck (on purpose) in the gap that keeps the pin popped up... but still? whats the reason? would those need to be pulled in and our that often?

I understand they're prolly for wind conditions (but like what ones? in or out for what reason? - maybe the book will explain)

I have several tillers - hot sticks (2) and I often disconnect it as it gets in the way and I often throw it aft anyway and drag it. I'm on a small lake so I'm swapping sides often as it doesn't take long to get across the lake. And it's a pain swinging out and back in while the main/traveler swings from one side to the other. I sit far aft and just hold the cross bar most of the time.

So pretty much what I thought - I might as well remove those white cords and CLEAN THINGS UP. right?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 5:58 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MICHIGAN
Quote:
On the jib traveler... You are missing the bungee that pulls the cars to center. The traveler line and cleat pulls them outboard and the bungee pulls back towards the mast. You can use a single length between the two cars or two separate lengths from each car to opposite corner casting.


hmmm never heard of or seen this (any photos on here show it?) Bungie attached where? These serve what purpose? Would they help bring the jib across to the opposite side more automatically? as it is now - I release the jib cleet and hopefully the wind brings it across - but on light days - I have to pull in the opposite jib line to draw it over to that side and then recleat it. Should this bungie - do this for me THAT WOULD BE NICE...

Quote:
The cam and rake adjustments are clearly written in our Sailing FAQ topic: viewforum.php?f=18

Specifically: "Rudders - Cams / Rake / Alignment " viewtopic.php?f=18&t=467

The adjuster plate "bolt" is shown in your photo here:


Thanks - have read it over and over and (well not so clearly if you don't know what you're talking about) Hobie really fears photos/illustrations for some reason?

I understand (logical) that the bolt on top will move the plate inside... I imagine this changes the rake (mine is fine I think) but when locked the rudded have a good amount of play forward and aft - SO how to eliminate that? as if there is play between the cam and the rake/plate - moving the plate to eliminate the play in the rudder would then defeat the purpose of the plate to force the new (rudder rake) so makes no sense to me.

Is slop that bad? they slop side to side a bit too - I could tighten the bolts - but I fear that over tightening might CRACK the mount (especially if it's just cast).

Reading that faq - refers to the upper adjustment for cam lock (not rake as I thought - and then speaks of a set screw in lower casting. (not sure where) Again PHOTOS / DIAGRAMS are worth a 1000 words. (which is about how many you have in this particular FAQ. ;-)

Still a confusing bit of business to me. (hopefully a book will help when I get some time to get one). But for a product that has been around A AS LONG AS THESE HAVE - your site should surely have good documentation online with photos or better - with MOVIE CLIPS.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:02 pm 
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Quote:
Mainsheet system looks good, set up now as 6:1.


thanks - (so my 2nd version - is correct?) rather than as I found it when I purchased it. Seems both boats I purchased were BOTH setup differently - and BOTH wrong. (again I might mention - docs - online, movie clips - it appears I'm not the only one confused. (both sellers were as well).

You say now its a 6:1 - can you explain the difference/benifets? just easiler to pull in? Faster? (more for racing?) I don't find mine that hard to pull in... and I don't do real racing (just the two we have here). I actually can use the excersize from the extra torque - (is that the only reason? easier?)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:06 pm 
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Quote:
I believe the line that is attachd to the jib car should be tightened around the shaft of the locking mechanism. Pull the locking pin up, tie a tight not around the shaft, and then the line will keep the locking pin from re-engaging the track. This will allow the cars to slide back and forth in the track with no issues. The bungee Matt talked about will keep them wanting to pull inward. The line will then allow you to adjust them outboard as much as you desire.



Exactly - they do... So it's desireable to have them float? And use those white cords to allow them to move in and outward? I'm confused as to how to attach a bungie and where to attach. Seems a bungee between the two cars will pull them inward. So I'd then use the white cords to pull them outward? I don't recall if there is a way to cleat the white cords. What stops the bungee from pulling the cars back in toward the mast. (again very confused).

All these in the book?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:09 pm 
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How tight should the downhaul be? on one boat I can pretty easily max it out - pulling it down to the mast tie off (seems weird) like I should have more space to tighten it. Should I see any ripples in the sail? I see minor ones at the top - as if the battens need to be tighter to totally eliminate the 3-4 small ripples up there.

THOSE holes/eye lets in the sail? to tighten the sail more? how to use them? when to use them? does it pull the sail down toward the boom? (again to what end?)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:13 pm 
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Ordered the book - found one for 1.98 in amazone (used in very good cond) 3.99 shipping - so couldn't beat that.
thanks
Any others? or DVD's that would be helpful?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:25 pm 
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Put the bungee around the posts, which will keep the little peg things up. The white cord will cleat off on the lance cleats (on the corner castings) to keep the blocks from moving inward. The bungee will pull them in when you uncleat the lance cleats.

And by bungee I mean shock cord with loops on the ends. The loops go around the pegs.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:01 am 
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Here is the bungie set up for a hobie 16. The orange lines are the outhaul for the travelers, the blue lines attach to the jib and the black bungie is attached to both travelers and runs behind the dolphin striker. This is a 2009 model (mine) so it doesn't exactly match yours but the setup is similar.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 7:19 am 
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I adjust the jib traveler when on the water, but I just crawl up there and adjust it by hand.. I think I prefer a cleaner setup on the tramp, less lines to get tangled in when moving about. When racing, I suppose the crew could trim the jib traveler while hiked out.. I don't recall that the book talks about this particular type of rigging since it's brand specific. It will talk about how to trim for different wind conditions though which is good to know! Honestly though, you can just play with things while on the water, adjust to see if it works or not. ;)

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1982 H16 (C:\Worthy)
Yellow/White Prism type sails


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:27 am 
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Rojoyinc...

Yes, we could use more and more... and more documentation, pictures and video on our website. All this takes a huge amount of time and has been a constant focus for me for many years... alone... no huge support staff here and this is not my primary function at Hobie Cat, so bear with me on this. I have a lot of products to support, let alone the aged ones (like yours) out there.

We greatly appreciate the community support here in the forums. There is a wealth of information within them already and more added every day to help support users such as yourself with no real experience with the product.

Keep up the reading and sailing and you will learn over time. There certainly is a lot to learn.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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