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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2014 10:33 am
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I'm sure this has been asked before but I couldn't find a post where it was addressed. I got a new hull on the cheap for my 16 and would like to install it this weekend (which means I should have posted 3 days ago, which is about right on schedule for me lol). Do you guys have any bright ideas on how to get it free of the tramp castings. The boat is from the late 70s so there is a lot of corrosion going on. I have a few ideas but just wanted to see if they're is something i'm missing.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:35 am
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Pop the bolts out on the pylon posts, get ya a big heavy rubber mallet and WD40. let the lube soak in it for about 20 mins then whack the tramp frame upwards to release the hull a little at a time on each pylon. Once you get it started the hull will come off easily. There's a really good chance the casting holes wont line up with the new pylon holes/hull so have a 1/2" drill bit and a drill handy. Prob a good idea to take one of the bolts you removed to the hardware store and get new stainless bolts and nylock nuts.

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Tim Grover

Memphis, TN

1978 H16 (sold)
1986 H16 (sold)
1980 H16 (sold)
1996 H20 Miracle (just right)
Bought another H16. Solid!!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 5:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 4642
Location: Detroit, MI
Fxloop wrote:
Pop the bolts out on the pylon posts, get ya a big heavy rubber mallet and WD40. let the lube soak in it for about 20 mins then whack the tramp frame upwards to release the hull a little at a time on each pylon. Once you get it started the hull will come off easily. There's a really good chance the casting holes wont line up with the new pylon holes/hull so have a 1/2" drill bit and a drill handy. Prob a good idea to take one of the bolts you removed to the hardware store and get new stainless bolts and nylock nuts.

And before you do that, drop the mast, remove all the standing rigging from the old hull (best to remove the mast/rigging entirely so you can man-handle the frame), remove the rudder system, and loosen the trampoline. After you've done that, grab one bow and shake it up and down vigorously. The racking will help break the corrosion on the pylon/casting.

If you're not concerned about damaging the old hull, stick a 4' long 2x4 between the hull and casting (NOT the sidebar) and use it to lever off the casting from the pylon (orient the 2x4 with the wide side vertical). Dead-blow hammer works better than a rubber mallet. Bigger is better.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 6:22 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:08 am
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Location: Newport, NC
White vinegar, no seriously the build up and corrosion in the pylons is often a base. The acidity of vinegar will loosen it up. Also if you place a board against the casting and hammer the board you won't mar the casting.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 9328
Location: Oceanside, California
Fyi... we use a heavy "dead blow" pellet filled mallet. Even a 5 pound sledge hitting the corner casting (use a 2x4 as a pad) needs significant force to pound the castings off. Full hard swings. Watch the hull lip... and your forehead :) (friend of mine smacked himself with the follow through).

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Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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