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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 7:55 am 
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Does a new H16 include a Harken 6:1 downhaul kit?

Does it still just come with a standard hiking stick?

Some folks are calling them race ready and I'm just trying to understand what has actually been added to the newer boats, if anything. Thanks for any info.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 5:10 pm 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
If your considering buying a new H16 you really should visit and communicate with your local Hobie dealer.

All new H16's are race ready with 6:1 downhaul as standard. Not sure what you refer to as a 'standard hiking stick'? I understand that the standard was the carbon fibre sticks but no more because they would break too easily???
If you check out the sailing catalogue the only advertised options are spinnaker, trailer, beach wheels. But you can negotiate all the parts and accessories with your dealer.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 6:27 pm 
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Just trying to find out what comes with the newer models so I can decide: Get newer "used" boat vs. trying to "upgrade" older boat.

With very few dealers stocking the H16's in the SE US the dealers I asked were "not sure" about all features on the H16. I was just in north FL and the few stores in the Pensacola area didn't have a new boat and don't stock the H16 normally. They are just selling way more plastic boats these days.

Thought this might be a good place to ask about the newer H16 features.

A list by year of what features were added/deleted on the H16 would be great. From the beginning ... any historians around.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 8:31 pm 
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New 16's do not come with 6:1 downhaul. Unless by some chance that changed in the last year but I doubt it has. Boats come with a pulley and a short piece of line to make a 3:1 system for the downhaul.
As far as hiking stick. The new boats should be coming with a regular non telescoping tiller/ hiking stick. The catalog shows the standard hiking stick in white.. but I'm pretty sure new 16s get the same stick but in black. I also got the FX3 Arriba Hot Stick which adjusts in length. All the hiking sticks are made of fiberglass. I doubt Hobie would ever sell a full carbon hiking stick because that would make it conductive.

New boats are Race ready. The stuff you are talking about with hiking sticks and 6:1 downhauls are really to just make things easier.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 5:25 pm 
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Location: Detroit, MI
ConnorG wrote:
I doubt Hobie would ever sell a full carbon hiking stick because that would make it conductive.

Carbon tiller extensions have been class legal for a few years now, and a carbon stick is stock equipment on the Wild Cat.

"Conductive" is a not a quantitative term - anything will conduct electricity given enough voltage (or it will arc around it, or flow through impurities on the surface). That's the argument we used to get carbon tiller extensions approved for racing.

ConnorG wrote:
New boats are Race ready. The stuff you are talking about with hiking sticks and 6:1 downhauls are really to just make things easier.

Now that's the truth. I think the only thing that needs adding is carpet/neoprene/Hydroturf on the siderails. Especially now that they come with EPO3 rudders.

jreakens wrote:
A list by year of what features were added/deleted on the H16 would be great. From the beginning ... any historians around.

The list is extensive - and sort of been done before - viewtopic.php?t=32437

Bottom line is that a new Hobie 16 requires almost no additions / modifications to be at the very pointy end of racing.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:02 am 
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Location: Cape Coral FL
Just to add to the discussion, as I bought a new boat last year.

On the making things easier front, a couple other things to keep in mind.

1) Even though mine did not, my understanding is that new boats now come with the trampoline double grommeted up the center, making it "easier" to get the trampoline stiffer.

2) New boats also don't come with the adjustable jib halyard set up on the mast, as seen in the picture on the HCA website for the Hobie 16. Below is a link, and the picture is at the bottom of the page. This set-up makes it "easier" to get the preferred tension on the standing rigging for racing.

http://www.hcana.hobieclass.com/default ... 0071/9268/

Finding a second hand boat can be a challenge, as there are not that many produced in the recent years in which a lot of positive improvements were made. If your looking to get into racing for the first time, then getting a second hand boat from a local fleet racer would be best, or if you've race before, then get a new one, its worth it.

When I bought my boat, the things I added to make it race ready were:
1) Neoprene the side rails
2) Add 6:1 downhaul
3) Double grommet the middle of the tramp
4) Add adjustable jib halyard set-up
5) Add a small "eye-strap" to the mast to hold the jib halyard close to the mast.

A good resource to check out "race ready" boats is to scroll through the gallery of the latest Hobie Worlds earlier this year in Australia.

http://hobie16worlds2014.hobieworlds.com


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 4:07 pm 
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Location: South Carolina
Coralreefer: do you have pictures of the eye-strap to hold the jib halyard? I have one of these on the side of my mast that pulls the halyard from center and away from the jib battens. A comment was made on this forum that it puts a slight bend in the mast. I wonder if that is significant and if the eye-strap you recommend is different.
Thanks!
Ted


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:09 pm 
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yelkenli wrote:
Coralreefer: do you have pictures of the eye-strap to hold the jib halyard? I have one of these on the side of my mast that pulls the halyard from center and away from the jib battens. A comment was made on this forum that it puts a slight bend in the mast. I wonder if that is significant and if the eye-strap you recommend is different.
Thanks!
Ted

If you have the power pack jib halyard system with a second turning block and cam cleat you don't need a fairlead or eyestrap. I just take the halyard and hook it behind the cam cleat. That sucks it back to the mast and mostly out of the way. The other parts of the jib batten "feature" of the 16 are trimming the battens so you don't have any more than you need sticking out, teaching your crew to *stand* to clear the battens during a light air tack, holding the jib backwinded in normal/heavy air so it blows through without hanging.

IMO time sailing and tacking solves jib batten hangups more than any hardware change. ;-)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:29 pm 
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RHoughVYC wrote:
IMO time sailing and tacking solves jib batten hangups more than any hardware change. ;-)



I dunno.. That Velcro system on my Euro sails is pretty sweet. :D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:19 pm 
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ronholm wrote:
RHoughVYC wrote:
IMO time sailing and tacking solves jib batten hangups more than any hardware change. ;-)



I dunno.. That Velcro system on my Euro sails is pretty sweet. :D


+1 Velcro Jibs are well worth the extra coin.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:43 pm 
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GD_NC wrote:
ronholm wrote:
RHoughVYC wrote:
IMO time sailing and tacking solves jib batten hangups more than any hardware change. ;-)



I dunno.. That Velcro system on my Euro sails is pretty sweet. :D


+1 Velcro Jibs are well worth the extra coin.

I'd agree that the velcro batten holders work very well. I have that system on my Euro sails. However, Euro Jibs have some details that are different from the NA jibs and bring some issues of their own that changes the rake geometry. I like the NA jib better than the Euro jib ... so ... I'm probably going to upgrade my NA jibs to the velcro system.

R


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