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 Post subject: 1983 Hobie 16 drain size
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 1:46 pm 
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Unfortunately I've recently lost my drain plug while traveling with my 1983 hobie cat. I figured if i'm replacing the drain plug i might as well replace the plastic plate also since they're both pretty old. Would anybody know the size of the drain hole? And yes i am an amateur and yes this is my first sail boat haha.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 1:59 pm 
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I would only replace the plug, but both are standard Hobie Cat parts listed in the catalog:

http://cdn.hobiecat.com/digital_assets/87367224-international-sailing-parts-catalog-optimized.pdf

Page 50 left mid page.

10091000 Plug with gasket

10092000 Drain housing

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 6:38 pm 
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is it pretty hard to do? and the drain hasn't changed size over the years?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 6:49 pm 
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Why is it so hard to change out? it seems like it's just removing two screws and then cutting the silicone on the edges. Of course all sailing looks that easy at first. And also, hobbies haven't changed there drain size after all these years?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 6:31 am 
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I replaced both plug and housing on the 1985 model should be good for another 30 years or so. This is one of the few places that I use 5200 sealant. Always keep the old plugs in the Hobie Hell Box as emergency spares.
Former Hobie Admiral Gary


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:43 am 
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It's not at all hard to do. I think MM is just saying that there's no need to mess with the housing if it's not leaking. The size hasn't changed. In fact, I think the plug fits some Prindles, etc. too. Order spares....that won't be the last one you lose.

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Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 11:51 am 
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thanks guys this definitely helped out


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:55 am 
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Location: Georgetown, Texas
I have A 14 and my plugs are impossible to get out unless I pull the rudder pins. Is this typical?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 9:10 am 
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Yes... the pins can overlap the drain plug, so lifting them slightly will clear the path. No need to fully remove. Simply push the pins upwards to be flush with the casting.

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 9:51 am 
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Location: Clearwater, FL
I keep a couple of flattened SS split ring washers on top of the rudder pins (just below the split ring pin or cotter pin). This raises the bottom of the rudder pins enough so they are not in the way of drain plug.

Image

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL
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Last edited by Tim H16 on Mon May 17, 2021 9:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 12:38 pm 
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On my daughter's H14T, I just redrilled the bottom hole in the pin as far up as possible then cut off the excess pin from the bottom. Not hard at all to do on aluminum pins. Before, we just removed the bottom spring clip that we use as a keeper pin and pushed the rudder pin up from the bottom (as Matt M. says).

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Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 7:04 am 
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Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 2:17 pm 
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Problem solved! Milled 1/8 off the bottom and made new flush pins. Put one clip at the top below the hull! I wonder why it was not done this way from the start?

Merry Christmas!

Dewey


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 10:19 am 
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Usually the pins extend beyond the casting so you can use another cotter key to lock the pin in place. This is in case of capsize to prevent rudder loss or theft too.

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Hobie Cat USA
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