Your old halyard had a 3:1 purchase in the section of the halyard going down to the cheek block/cleat. Your Aussie halyard should have a 3:1 purchase in the section that's hooked to the head of the jib. So no difference in purchase....just the location of it.
Your reference to producing slack in the main halyard doesn't make sense....do you mean slack in the forestay?
Here's how I do it.... take out all the slack that's easy to get out get a new grip with a couple of wraps around one hand while holding the line against the block push the halyard down with the other hand.....still keeping the line pressed against the block a little, so it doesn't go crazy on ya' (that should bring the mast forward and snug it up....if you're a lightweight, Matt's bow method will probably work better) while being careful to keep the tension on, complete the routing around the block, then take a few wraps around the cleat, then add a few hitches
You should indeed create slack in the forestay if the rest of your rigging is correct. Pictures might help to make sure that's the case.
The kit with the extra cheek block and cam cleat is a rather advanced system to allow the jib halyard (and therefore overall rig) tension to be tweaked on the water. It is in no way required to raise the jib and tension the rig.
Hope this helps!
_________________ Jerome Vaughan Hobie 16
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