Halyard length - cable portion

Hi,

I just bought a new halyard and I can't get it to lock into the prong/hook. Upon inspection, I can see that the halyard shackle is bearing against the masthead without giving enough length for the bead to engage. I'm wondering if the length from bead to shackle (the cable portion of the halyard) is not long enough due to some production fault on this particular halyard. Has anyone had this issue before or knows what could be wrong?

Thanks!

_________________
James Ball
'80 Hobie 16 - new to me!

Exposed cable = 11-7/8" between lugs
Exposed mast = 2-3/8" between tang and mast cap

Can you post a pic of how it doesn't work?

_________________
'00 H16 #104691
'78 H16 #32692 ex-rental [gone]
Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages

Thank you! I'll have to wait until next w/end to get a picture, but the measurement will help determining a root cause. The boat is new to me and I haven't looked at the mast up close yet - it's permanently rigged at a sailing club - so maybe a closer inspection will help too.

Am I correct in assuming the halyard exposed cable is a different length for CompTip/non-CompTip mast heads?

_________________
James Ball
'80 Hobie 16 - new to me!

I should have clarified that my dimensions are for comptip. Yes, pretty sure the halyard is different for solid masts. Different sheave assembly, too. You have a solid mast? Even if you do, you will know if you have a comptip halyard with my numbers.

_________________
'00 H16 #104691
'78 H16 #32692 ex-rental [gone]
Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages

Anton,

I managed to get some pictures today. Not sure how to upload them on here, but link is below:

http://s665.photobucket.com/user/kingru ... tip%20pics

It turns out I have a full aluminum mast, no comptip. On first thought, this must be the reason. But, looking at your measurements, mine are not far off. The Halyard is a comptip Halyard as it measures like yours - 30.16cm (11-7/8"). Interestingly, my Halyard hook is not far off yours. If you look at the pictures you'll see it's 7cm (2-3/4"). If our lengths are the same, is it that the comptip has a different sheave, and therefore gets away with a shorter Halyard?

What do you think is the best solution? Drill out the rivets and move the hook up? The Halyard is brand new (bought by old owner just before selling it to me). Or should I try a non-comptip Halyard?

Thanks for your time and assistance!

James

_________________
James Ball
'80 Hobie 16 - new to me!

Yes, your problem is that you are using a Comptip halyard with a solid aluminum mast.

I wouldn't move the halyard clip. That may affect how easily you can hook / unhook the halyard. Probably the easiest thing to do would be to have a new halyard made. Sell the old halyard to someone with a Comptip.

I'm not familiar with the old mast setup, but your pics make it look like the masthead does not overlap the mast as the 2-sheave one does. Given that, it looks like the distance from the tang to the end of the mast section is the same in both cases, and therefore if a 2-sheave masthead would fit on a solid casting you'd be home free with stock Hobie parts. Unfortunately it's $100 but maybe you can find a used one from a broken mast.

Experts: will the 2-sheave masthead fit onto the solid mast? What do the ROW boats with solid masts use?

_________________
'00 H16 #104691
'78 H16 #32692 ex-rental [gone]
Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages

I would think you could replace the halyard with stock parts. I have an extra main halyard cable so I know they exist.

_________________
JKK
83 yellow/ white decks Hobie 14 Corando turbo
82 yellow hulls Hobie 16 Cat Fever
84 yellow hulls hobie 16 Yellow Nationals
plus a few extras that I'm restoring

Technically, yes. However, a new wire halyard will cost a lot less and still be class legal (in those regions without Comptips).

There's a long story about a 2-sheave masthead used on a solid aluminum mast at the Pan Am Games (to hoist the main higher = more mast rake) that resulted in 1) a nasty protest and 2) the class rule that now specifically prohibits it.

Mbounds, I'd be interested to know why this is. Is it that a higher hook will prohibitively change the angle needed to get past the hook? I would think that one could stand further back when raising the sail the last few inches, increasing the angle enough to get past the higher placed hook. I can't see another reason why it would affect hooking/unhooking - but I have next to zero experience actually doing it

Thanks,

_________________
James Ball
'80 Hobie 16 - new to me!

What do the Rest Of World, non-comptip boats use for halyard and sheave? I only ask because those parts seem to be NLA here.

_________________
'00 H16 #104691
'78 H16 #32692 ex-rental [gone]
Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages

Sheaves are NLA... Wire halyards are available and listed in the catalog as:

20651011 HALYARD - H16 MAIN (NON COMPTIP)



This is the wire only and includes a swage and thimble. You have to feed through the mast head and the make the thimble loop and swage.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

The original aluminum casting / large single sheave.

But new solid-mast boats have that NLA sheave, right? That's how the pics look on Hobie Australia's website. [Edit: thanks for the clarification MattB] Not that it matters to this; I'm merely curious. Do those people have to manufacture the halyard in place like you described?

It really sounds like being able to use a new, stock rope halyard would be the way to go. I know I'd rather upgrade the sheave and use stock everything than build the halyard in place, go custom or move the mast tang. Class-legal on a 30+ year old boat just isn't an issue for the vast majority of us.

And MattB, I don't see how they hoisted the main higher with the double sheave. But I don't have both in front of me to compare.

_________________
'00 H16 #104691
'78 H16 #32692 ex-rental [gone]
Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages

It should be a simple fix to replace the stainless halyard with a stock one, no need to "manufacture it". The rope halyards will come apart where they meet the cable. I've seen 2 that way on used boats I've purchased. The rope halyard and the cable halyard cost about the same. There's no benefit to putting a rope halyard on a solid aluminum mast. I'm replacing one of the comptip masts with the old standby as you can't trust an old rope halyard.

_________________
JKK
83 yellow/ white decks Hobie 14 Corando turbo
82 yellow hulls Hobie 16 Cat Fever
84 yellow hulls hobie 16 Yellow Nationals
plus a few extras that I'm restoring