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 Post subject: Winter Repairs
PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 10:11 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2003 7:38 pm
Posts: 16
I'm in the winter / spring rebuild phase - I don't want any excuses not to be winning the B-class later this year. Rudders are sanded and nicks fixed. Rudder stiffing kit ready. The Hobie Miracle 20 tiller adjusters ready to put on. All new hardware and cordage for mast. etc.. I'm currently fininshing the keels and I have to wait on the weather...

Here is the question -- after taking off the Tramp, I measured the port bow to starboard stern and the starboard bow to port stern and I got a difference of almost 2 inches... The tuning guide and other docs say this should be almost identical.... How do I fix?

Thanks
Harry
77747 B/C-Class


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 7:05 am 
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Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5197
Location: Detroit, MI
It's one thing to fix it, it's another to keep it that way.

The fix is fairly simple. Start with your boat on a flat, level surface - like a garage floor (put some carpet underneath the hulls). Rig your mainsheet on the "long axis" - from bow to opposite stern. "Sheet in" until the measurements are even, then re-install the trampoline. Keep the sheet rigged in case the boat works out of square while you're tightening the tramp. The boat will want to "spring back," so you might have to overshoot the alignment to make it square when you remove tension from the mainsheet.

The problem is that with a 20 year old boat (based on your sail #), once you go sailing, it's going to go out of alignment again - doesn't matter how tight you get the trampoline. The only real cure for this is to glue the boat together.

More important is to see how stiff the frame is. After you've installed the trampoline and tightened it as much as you can, lift one bow slowly while watching the other bow. If you can move one bow 6" or more before the other bow starts to lift, you've got a serious stiffness issue that needs to be addressed with glue (best) or shims (OK, but not as good).

In reality, the fact that the hulls aren't aligned doesn't slow you down as much as you might think. One blown tack will more than erase any gain from having hulls perfectly parallel. Most gains and losses on the race course are made in the "transitions" - tacks, mark roundings, jibes - and in reading the wind. Improve your technique and boat handling skills and you'll improve your finishing position! :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2004 9:44 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2003 7:38 pm
Posts: 16
Thanks for the information... The Hobie Pefmance Manual didn't say how to correct the measurment just that is should be nearly identical. I've been reading about epoxying the frame on "The BEACH CATS" web site... A pevious owner has shimmed the frame. The last time I think she was raced was about 96 or so under a different sail # which I have ( Newer number but a much ruffer sail). There were two other owners and 1 parked the cat in his back yardfor three years, before I rescued the her.

As for stiffness I can see movement of the other hull right at 6 or 6+ inches and I was going to see how this year pans out before I Epoxy the frame. Realy it was on my list of things do but I have too many projects for this year already not to mention the bad winter we had in NC....

I have found many a mistake in my setups (heavy crew weight) and will keep a journal with numbers. I've been following some of the lighter crew suggestions and I can tell by all the books I went the wrong way. Last year I changed the riging and the shrouds and forstay were a different length -- I still not over that change (but will be thanks to the Permance Manual).

I think I just need more water time.. Like the MUG RACE or more racing.
Winter is the pitts.

Thanks again
Harry 77747
The best looking 83 in town.


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