skipper0802 wrote:
hull trim...while reaching it was difficult to keep the windward hull just out of the water without it rocketing upward. (Because of my son's low body weight- 48lbs. and current experience level, I'm not sure trapping-out would be a benefit).
Trapping out does benefit - try it.
skipper0802 wrote:
Would a 'smoother' method of achieving the most efficient heel angle be to cleat the traveler and adjust with the main sheet?
Hold the tiller with one hand, the main sheet with the other, and the traveler sheet with your third hand.
It's better to let out the traveler more and cleat it, then work the main. Under your conditions and experience, having the traveler in close makes for lots of power to the main in a puff, and consequently, the boat wants to heel more. With the traveler out about half way and the main tight you'll have less sudden hull flying. You could also sheet out more on the jib, but that's more the crew's job than the skipper's.
skipper0802 wrote:
-leeward bow - Maybe a bit more mast rake would move the center-of-effort aft and pull the bows up a bit?
Correct, but. . . judging from the sail number and upper rudder castings, your boat is older than 1983 - this presents a problem with mast and rudder rake adjustment, not to mention jib performance. Around 1983 Hobie lenthened the forestay and shortened the shrouds to allow for more mast rake, which lessens the likelihood of a pitchpole. With more power over the rudders, the rudders needed to be raked forward to compensate for the increased weather helm from the aft raked mast, so Hobie changed the rudder castings to allow for this adjustment. Your rudder castings aren't adjustable and if you rake the mast back more you'll need to redrill the rudder holes to lessen the new increased weather helm.
Additionally, if your jib is original it was not cut for the increased mast rake you seek, which causes considerable luffing of the top portion of the jib. So unless you want to spend money on new sails and rudder castings to go with the new standing rigging (which if you don't know when it was last replaced, then do it soon for peace of mind), you're kind of stuck with the boat as it is.
So now what? Rake the mast as much as you can before the jib luffs and there's too much weather helm on the rudders, move your weight aft, and, until you teach your crew how to work the jib, let the jib out a little more to take downward pressure off the leeward bow.
One more thing: the Anti Pitch Pole Hydro Foils (Hobie part #30110 for $107, and derisively known as "training wheels") easily and quickly bolt to the bow tang. They are not "preventers", but (and don't let the guys on this forum know) they're on my '81 16, and combined with more sailing skill and rigging adjustments, they've been helpful in convincing the rest of my family it's OK to go out with me. By the way, I, too, need new sails and rudder castings.