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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 11:00 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2004 11:48 am
Posts: 6
My mainsail has become very hard to raise and lower. Part of the sail that fits into the track has a two inch section that is frayed and the cord is exposed. It dosen't seem like enough to bind up the sail the way it does. Can this be repaired? Is that really my problem? Is there a lubricant I can use in the track?
Don in Sneads Ferry


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 5:39 pm
Posts: 433
Location: West Texas
Not sure if the fraying is causing the binding, but me and a lot of people use a silicone spray lubricant.

Image

It's like WD-40 but doesn't leave behind an oily residue. Clean out the slot in the mast really well and then give it a good spray down the length of it. Then every so often spray the sail luff rope as you feed it into the slot. Works great on the traveler tracks, too!

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Warm regards,

Jim

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 Post subject: Silicone works
PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2004 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:57 am
Posts: 14
Location: Mason City, IA
I have the same problem on my H16. Silicone spray really helps a lot.

Just don't get too much overspray on your tramp or you and your crew will be skating all over the place. Don't bother asking how I know that. :oops:

Mathew


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:34 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 6:39 am
Posts: 471
Location: Finger Lakes, NY
I have always been advised to use the 100% silicone. It is labeled as such. It has no anti-rust additives etc. It is a little pricey but it last's forever too. Yes, no overspray on the tramp is a good idea. As has been said- do not ask how I know this either. :roll: CLEAN the track before the silicone. Make sure you clean all the interior sides of the track.

The track HAS to be cleaned periodically. It sounds like you may be getting a residue in there. All sorts of environmental pollutants build up gummy crud.

Check your pulley up top to see that it rolls freely too.

Hope this helps- Happy sails to you

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The fact that this windy world is largely covered in water obviously means that man was meant to sail.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 2:49 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 2:31 am
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I've just got an oldish second hand Hobie17 and as could be expected had some minor problems first time out with rigging. Having read this post I obviously need to get some silicon spray and clean out the track and lubricate the luff rope.

The main halyard is also quite stretchy and I was wondering if it should be like this . It's one thing I'm going to replace but I was wondering whether I should have a halyard with such an amount of stretch and I'm wondering wether it contributing to my second problem

The main problem I had was getting the sail down. In fact I couldn't get it down and it had to come down with the mast which made getting the mast down more fun than I expected. :roll:

I couldn't get the ring on the top of the halyard to disengage and in my attempts to free it the top of the sail came out of the track. The luff rope doesn't look particularly worn and the track doesn't look as though it's splayed. I think it came out because I was pulling to hard.

What it the trick to disengaging the ring ? It was the one thing I forgot to ask the guy I bought the boat off.

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Cliff


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 4:57 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 4642
Location: Detroit, MI
The halyard should not be stretchy. Get 75' of 3mm low stretch line to replace it. All the major manufacturers of cordage make it.

If you go to www.hallspars.com, they have some of the best hi-tech cordage that you can order on-line.

Usually, the problem is getting the ring on the hook, not off.

If the sail came out of the track at the top, there is an aluminum piece that Hobie makes to replace the last 10" or so of the CompTip track. (LUFF TRACK UPDATE Part #50404111) That's the first thing to do.

I always used an Aussie Halyard ring -
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They just work better.

When you're trying to disengage the halyard, hoist the main up as high as you can, then rotate the mast counter-clockwise (have someone pull the rotator arm to the starboard side of the boat). That gets enough separation between the ring and the hook so that the sail can come down.

If you can't get the sail disengaged, remove a wing from one side and flip the boat over on the beach to get the sail started down. As you already know, taking the mast down with the sail still on it is awkward at best. :shock:

Good luck and enjoy your new toy!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 11:46 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 5:39 pm
Posts: 433
Location: West Texas
I've also become a big proponent of replacing your standing rigging if it's of questionable age and history (since my H14 dismasting a few weeks ago. :lol: )

Good luck!

Jim


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 5:50 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 9:01 pm
Posts: 21
Location: Westport, Ma. U.S.A.
Take Matt's advice and get an Aussie Halyard ring. Murrays has the little halyardeye offset to one side. I have found this makes it easier. I think I rotate the mast so thet the rotator arm is about even with the front crossbar, pull on the halyard to lift the ring above the hook, and then release. should drop. If you do get it stuck, take the wings off and tilt the boat over on one side to access the ring. As for the aluminum track insert, be prepared as it is a bear to install. I had to cinch a huge belt around it and hang my whole weight on it to pop the thing into the track! Great boat! Enjoy it! Brian


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 6:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 2:31 am
Posts: 2
Worked well guys , all I needed to do was rotate the mast and it disengaged with out a problem, well that a new halyard and half a can of silicone spray

Cliff


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