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 Post subject: Hobie 17 board problem
PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 3:56 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 3:53 am
Posts: 30
Hi I'm an experienced sailor who has dug a hobie 17 out of a field and restored it. All has gone well except I must have managed to fit the centreboards incorrectly against the springs and both boards have sheered off at the top. So any view on why this might have happened (apart from me messing it up) and where I can get replacement boards and springs from?
many thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
What broke exactly - the hook on the board?

New boards and springs are $$$$ - available from any Hobie dealer.

You can occasionally find used ones on eBay.

The boards can probably be fixed. How about some photos?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 12:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2004 12:36 pm
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Location: Tri-Cities, WA
hobie17intheuk, When you say sheered off at the top, do you mean that the integrated hooks have been broken off? If so I had a similar problem when I first started sailing my H17. I made the distance (about 5 inches) between rope handle and the upper stop knot (allowing the boards to extend no further than 14" below the keel). When I hit some rough water the knot slipped pass the stop all the way to the handle. This extended the board way too low, the front hook sheered off and spring went to Davy Jones Locker. Now I make the 14" distance from where the handle is at the stop. Mbounds is right both are pricy to replace (new boards are ~ $350.00 ea and springs over $50.00). I had to buy a new spring, but I was able to rebuild the board.
To rebuild the board hook I drilled a 3/4" hole approximately 4" into the end of the board starting from where the hook used to be. I then used fiberglass resin to glue a 6" 3/4" threaded fiberglass rod http://www.indelco.com/pc-10424-1252-aic1.aspx into the hole (resin in hole first, then use rod to force out excess, no air pockets). I used a threaded rod for both physical and holding strength. Let harden. Then wrap the first inch or so of the exposed rod with resin inpregnetated fiberglass knitted rope http://china-gasketmaterial.com/en/fiberglass_and_ceramic_fiber03.htm to build up size and shape. Let harden. Use saws, files (or my preference, a Dremel) to cut hook shape to match original. I have used the rebuild board for 4 seasons of hard sailing with no problems. :wink:


Last edited by fastcat on Tue Sep 15, 2009 9:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 2:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 3:53 am
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great yes you must be right I had them too low down


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 5:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 2574
Location: Jersey Shore
hobie17intheuk wrote:
great yes you must be right I had them too low down


Maximum amount of rope travel should be 12.5 inches. Basically, if you look at the back edge of the centerboard when it is in the down position, there should be no visible gap between the bottom of the hull and the aft corner of the centerboard. If there is, then you are down too far.

sm


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