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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 6:34 pm 
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I have been sailing on an old Hobie 16 for 2 seasons and ran across a "deal" on a H17. Not sure how good a deal it was, but I got it for $500. It has a new tramp, but everything else is original from 1986. The sail is completely delaminated, but I think I will use it anyway as I only sail recreationally.

Anyway, I need some help. I rigged it tonight to see if I could figure it out and it looks like I'm missing a few parts. I'm wondering what I need to get it ready to sail. The previous owner sailed it as is, without the boom or any downhaul.

Questions:

What do I do with the main halyard? On the H16 I tied it to a cleat on the mast.

It currently has the forestay attached to an adjuster, then the 2 wires go directly from the adjuster to the hulls. The parts diagram shows the forestay attached to the 2 wires, and 1 adjuster on each hull. Does it make a difference? Do I need to get 1 more adjuster?

What parts do I need?

I assume I need the boom and basically everything that attaches to it.

Finally, is it worth it to buy these parts, or should I just have fun with it as is and sell it for parts when I've had enough.

Here's some pics:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:38 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:35 pm
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Location: Lake Champlain, Vermont
Darn, sometimes the little things will cost as much as the boat. 6 of one, half dozen of the other.

Try and find a boom or boomlet although its gonna be tough. I guess you could sail it with out but thats no fun. I'd want max potential out of my boat! You may get away with the forstay set up but if it was me I'd get another adjuster and do it right. I can't see the angle of the bridle wires. Check the parts guide in the main 17 discussion page to see what else you need. Line goes in the pocket of the tramp if there is one. These boats are nice and hard to get hence me saying to complete it (and clean it up).

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H18, H17 & Various motor boats


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
I'd say it's pretty hard to beat a $500 boat and trailer, even if it is old and missing a few parts.

I would scrounge ebay, sailing classifieds, dealers and fleets to see if anyone has the parts you need to get the boat up and running. When I got my first 17 I paid $1k without a trailer and it was pretty beat. But the hulls were solid and the mast, tramps and rigging were in at least OK shape. However, the sail was toast, the centerboards were worn and damaged (and missing a spring) and crossbar connections were sloppy. Then I got it home and discovered that the front crossbar was completely cracked on both sides (couldnt see until I took the boat apart). But one of the 17 gurus in my fleet gave me a new crossbar and centerboard spring (as long as I agreed to race the boat- which I did). Point being that there are parts around, usually for cheap, you just have to know where to look.

The most important thing is that the platform is solid (no soft spots). Tear the whole boat apart, give everything a good inspection. Tighten up the X-bar cups.

The way your forestay/bridles is set up (with shackles down at the bow tangs) is actually fine as long as you're able to get enough mast rake. The only downside is that you have to lower your mast if you need to adjust your mast rake (which you shouldn't have to do once you get it set). I've seen other boats rigged the same as yours (although most do have the chainplates at the bow tangs).

You are going to need a boom. (You could run a boomlet, but only on a new sail, and you lose outhaul and mast rotation control). Without a boom, you'll be pulling inward way too much on the foot of the sail and you'll end up with a ton of draft (you probably won't be able to go upwind).

You also need a downhaul of some sort. Without it, you lose a ton of sail control.

A new sail would be good too, but if you can't spring for it (they're over $1k new) just sail what you've got until it shreds.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 12:24 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
I just noticed that your main halyard appears to be rigged incorrectly too. It looks like you have it running outside of the mast. The halyard ring should be tied to the end of the halyard so that it is coming out of the aft end of the upper halyard sheave. Then the halyard runds down the inside of the mast track and exits the bottom of the mast at the center pulley in the mast base. Do you have your halyard ring latched on the hook at the top of the mast or are you just tieing off the halyard?

In any case, I'd recommend you study the assembly manual- you can download it from this site.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 1:33 pm 
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Thanks for the tips. I have been studying the parts manual, but didn't notice the assembly manual. I've got it printed out now.

The main halyard ring is hooked at the top of the mast, I wasn't sure how I was going to get it back down, but after a few yanks it came down.

I still don't understand how the main halyard should be rigged. I think you mean that both ends of the halyard should be tied to the ring, so when you raise the sail, you take up the extra halyard line as well. Is this correct?

Another thing I noticed is that the main sheet is setup like my H16 with 2 blocks attached to the boom. I see the H17 boom only has 1 tang. I guess I need to buy a new 6:1 main block set also.

Hopefully I can find some used parts over the winter. If not, I'll have an incomplete H17 for sale, and I'll stick with the H16.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:30 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
Quote:
I still don't understand how the main halyard should be rigged. I think you mean that both ends of the halyard should be tied to the ring, so when you raise the sail, you take up the extra halyard line as well. Is this correct?


You could rig the halyard that way, but it's not really how it is intended. The ring gets tied to the end of the halyard that exits the aft end of the sheave at the top of the mast. The halyard is routed inside the sail track from the top halyard sheave down to the center sheave at the bottom of the mast where it then exits the mast. Pull the halyard from the bottom of the mast to raise the sail. Once the sail's up, coil the halyard and either tie it to the tramp or stick it in a tramp pocket if you have one. Note that the halyard rigging on the 17 mast is different than the 16 (which has an external main halyard).

There's also a FAQ on this forum that explains how to hook and un-hook the 17 main halyard ring. You have to have the boat pointed directly into the wind and then you rotate the mast in one direction to latch the ring and the other direction to unlatch.

Quote:
Another thing I noticed is that the main sheet is setup like my H16 with 2 blocks attached to the boom. I see the H17 boom only has 1 tang. I guess I need to buy a new 6:1 main block set also.


The 17 is intended to be run with a low-profile mainsheet system. The boom on the 17 is really low, I doubt you would be able to run a stacked mainsheet system even if you did have two bales on the boom. It sounds like the previous owner just included an old mainsheet system he had laying around from an old 16.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 11:20 am 
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Will this work for a mainsheet system?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harken-S ... 19b87cb01e


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 12:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 4498
Location: Detroit, MI
mantaray wrote:
Will this work for a mainsheet system?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harken-S ... 19b87cb01e


Yes. That's pretty much what comes standard on the boats. Lose the shackle at the bottom of the lower block. It's not needed.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 5:33 pm 
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Well, I bid $175 and didn't meet the reserve. What is this setup worth?

Do most people use the 40mm version instead for the lower profile?

If I get the 40mm, I think I need Harken 2613 and 2640, is that right?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
What came with the new boats was:
Lower Block - Harken 194 - about $185:
Image
Upper Block - Harken 2640 (40 mm triple) - about $85
Image
Add in 37' of 5/16" New England Salsa line - about $45

Total cost for a new system - ~$300.

Your mileage may vary.


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