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| H17 shroud tension http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=33546 |
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| Author: | Moldewart [ Sat Jan 01, 2011 6:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | H17 shroud tension |
Hi, My H17 has very slack shrouds. When the boat is stood flat and the shroud is placed in the fourth hole down on the tensioner both sides have a lot of 'play'. Is this standard?. What length should the shrouds be from hounds to the bottom of the cringle/eye Many thanks |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Sat Jan 01, 2011 8:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: H17 shroud tension |
The 17 likes a fairly loose rig. Otherwise, the mast won't rotate properly going downwind in light air. In heavier air, you can drop the shrouds down a hole to keep the rig from slapping around without affecting the rotation. The actual length of the shrouds isn't that critical - and has changed over the years (the 17 uses the same shrouds as the 16). Just set your mast rake correctly with the forestay/bridle length, then take most of the slack out the shrouds. You should set your mast rake so that there's about 6"-8" between the mainsheet blocks when sheeted in hard. You'll need to make sure the boom bail is in the right location (older boats have it too far aft). |
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| Author: | spinfly [ Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: H17 shroud tension |
MBounds wrote: Just set your mast rake correctly with the forestay/bridle length, then take most of the slack out the shrouds. You should set your mast rake so that there's about 6"-8" between the mainsheet blocks when sheeted in hard. You'll need to make sure the boom bail is in the right location (older boats have it too far aft). What do you mean correctly with forestat/bridle length. And i use a 6:1 purchase would that be the same for 6"/8' and i have a 89' and the bail is in original position. Ther's times when i've been out and it seems as if the baot is capable of so much more like it's dragging something. |
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| Author: | srm [ Mon Jan 10, 2011 4:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: H17 shroud tension |
spinfly wrote: What do you mean correctly with forestat/bridle length. Adjust the position of the bridle wires in the bridle adjusters so that there is roughly 6" between the mainsheet blocks when fully sheeted. Quote: Ther's times when i've been out and it seems as if the baot is capable of so much more like it's dragging something. Have you checked the toe-in of your rudders? Do you sail in weedy conditions? Also, sailing upwind with the downhaul too loose will allow the CE in the mainsail to move aft and can overload the rudders causing a heavy feel to the helm (only in medium to high wind though). An on the fly adjustable downhaul system allows you to compensate for this by adjusting the tension of the downhaul as required. sm |
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