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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 6:02 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake Kansas
What's the laundry list of parts needed to convert a newer, 17 Sport to a Class Legal racing 17?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 6:56 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
It depends on what version of a Sport it is - some have Harken traveller tracks that must be replaced. However, the basic list is:

Boom
Mast rotation arm and control line
Forestay, bridles

There are some additional things you'll want for racing:

6:1 downhaul, with cleats on both sides of the mast, led out to the wings.
Deep profile traveller track and new, brass-wheeled car (old tracks eat old cars for breakfast)
Positive mast rotation control.
7:1 mainsheet system (extra bale on boom; single block on ratchet block becket)


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 12:15 pm 
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For a 7:1 conversion a becket on the top block is better than a bale on the boom. Easy to install by drilling out one rivet. :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 2:20 pm 
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It's a '97 model, it that helps.
Matt, you're talking Main traveler track?
I liked how the Harken track on the 20 operated

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 2:32 pm 
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J_Eaton wrote:
It's a '97 model, it that helps.
Matt, you're talking Main traveler track?
I liked how the Harken track on the 20 operated

Yes, main traveler. The problem with the Harken traveler on the 17 (other than it not being class legal for racing) is that it moves when you sheet in. You pull on the sheet, and there's so little friction in the traveler car, all you do is pull the car towards you instead of the sheet through the blocks.

The 17 likes a lot of sheet tension in heavier air.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 2:39 pm 
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From the Hobie Parts Catalog (Page 12):

17 SPORT TO 17SE CONVERSION Have a Sport 17 and want to race? This kit includes all parts needed to convert a 1995 or newer 17 SPORT to the race SE version. Included are the boom, gooseneck fittings, mast rotation parts and forestay assembly. Older Sports equipped with HARKEN main traveler track may need to convert to the class legal “Tracker” traveler system (not included). Pre '95 Sports require purchase of new main sail.

52995640 Sport to 17SE conversion kit $473.75 (USD / 11-2010)

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 2:43 pm 
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Location: Clinton Lake Kansas
thanks gentlemen :)

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 7:20 pm 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
MBounds wrote:
J_Eaton wrote:
It's a '97 model, it that helps.
Matt, you're talking Main traveler track?
I liked how the Harken track on the 20 operated

Yes, main traveler. The problem with the Harken traveler on the 17 (other than it not being class legal for racing) is that it moves when you sheet in. You pull on the sheet, and there's so little friction in the traveler car, all you do is pull the car towards you instead of the sheet through the blocks.

The 17 likes a lot of sheet tension in heavier air.



Are you talking when the traveller is centered, or when travelled out? If its when its centered just throw a split tail traveller line on it.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 7:47 pm 
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Karl Brogger wrote:
Are you talking when the traveller is centered, or when travelled out? If its when its centered just throw a split tail traveller line on it.
The traveller on a 17 is never centered - unless you want to go slower than everyone else.

It's also not class legal. I think that would qualify as a "tapered sheet".

Now run along and play on your Viper. :twisted:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 6:38 am 
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Location: Storm Lake, IA
John just copy your sons boat. He seems to have it figured out well!

Just wondering where you found a newer 17? is it close to us?
I have a line on a 94ish boat in Nebraska. Same boat??????


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 6:47 am 
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Location: Storm Lake, IA
Matt
1.what year did they start putting the deep traveler track on?
2.do you have a fiberglass stick for your 17 or do you use a hot stick?

I cannot find a 10' stick and I dislike using a hot stick
I do have the longest stick hobie has for my 20 but it is just a bit to short for the 17.
are there any other options?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:00 am 
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hobieandy wrote:
1.what year did they start putting the deep traveler track on?

Don't know for sure - I retrofitted my old boat in 2002, so maybe a couple of years before that.

hobieandy wrote:
2.do you have a fiberglass stick for your 17 or do you use a hot stick?

I have both. I generally don't like the Hot Stick and I only use it in the lightest air, where you have to get way out on the bow.

hobieandy wrote:
are there any other options?

You can use anything you want, as long as it's non-conductive. Stiffness becomes an issue when you get something that long, though.

If any boat needed a carbon fiber tiller extension, it's the 17.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:13 am 
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hobieandy wrote:
1.what year did they start putting the deep traveler track on?


Late 1999. Likely 2000 model production.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:41 am 
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hobieandy wrote:
John just copy your sons boat. He seems to have it figured out well!
He's done quite well hasn't he? ...and so has that Larson guy from Storm Lake! :wink: I think Paul still has the 10', behemoth, stick that came with his boat (maybe it broke?) but know he didn't care for it.
hobieandy wrote:
Just wondering where you found a newer 17? is it close to us?
I have a line on a 94ish boat in Nebraska. Same boat??????
It's a local's boat, and not in the best of shape either, that's why I'm trying to determine how much money, as well as time & effort for other items, tramps, etc. I'd have invested.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:41 pm 
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Location: Ingleside, TX
This is a very interesting thread. I am planning on racing a 17sport that I got from my father next year. I just figured I would run it without the jib, but it looks like a lot more is involved. Is there a difference if it is a portsmith class?

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