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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 11:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:20 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Campbell, CA
I've got two 17s: 1986, no jib. I've had for about two years. And on Saturday, I bought a 2002 Sport.

Question: Without the jib deployed, is the 2002 Sport more difficult to tack than the 1986?

===Factors===
Solo: No jib is something I really prefer.
Young kids on board: boom-less clearance is nice
Young kids on board: one Sail is generally safer.

If the Sport (with jib stowed) is more difficult to tack, then I will need to do a hardware mix & match before selling my 1986. Note: I am aware that if I ever race, the boomless will not be competitive.

Thanks for your comments!

Dan


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 Post subject: Tacking?
PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 11:27 am
Posts: 539
Location: League City, TX
Dan:

I have a 86 and I also had a Sport jib package to change it and out of too from the stock SE. The stock jib is useless in my opinion. I sold it and got a custom 190 sq ft reacher. Anyway what you MUST do on a uni rig vs sloop (I came from a 16), is you have to let out 2-3 feet of sheet as soon as you go head to wind and even more as wind builds. When I learned that I very rarely went into irons.

Hope this helps

Doug


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 7:31 pm 
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Location: Campbell, CA
Hi Doug,

Thanks for the reply. I've got the loose-sheet tacking maneuver down pretty well on my 86.

But, does that maneuver become more difficult when you remove the sail-shape controls like the boom, mast rotation control, and outhaul?

Thanks

Dan


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 Post subject: ?
PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 8:17 pm 
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Location: League City, TX
Dan:

I sailed VERY little boomless. I would say just try it and see. Just make sure you are close hauled and sheeted in tight with good speed as you start the tack. Use the roll tack technique. If you don't know it, get "Catamaran racing for the 90's" off www.catsailor.com online store. It is a great book also for all around sailing and will teach you more than you could learn in three years on your own. There is also a chapter by Carlton Tucker on the Hobie 17.

Get the book, it is worth the $30. I have passed it on to 12 year old grand daughter I am training now.

Doug


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 1:12 pm 
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Location: Campbell, CA
Thanks Doug,

I read a Roll-tacking how-to on catsailors. I'll give it a try. They do warn that the technique is not advised for boats with daggerboards and will cause you to be at the back of the pack in a race. Our 17's have centerboards, so does the warning aplpy to us? Is the technique perhaps a more sure, but slower way to tack?

Also the advice/technique is saying keep the main in until you cross the wind, which contradicts the let it loose technique we previously discussed. Any comment on that?

Thanks,

Dan


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 Post subject: ?
PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 1:40 pm 
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Location: League City, TX
Dan:

Never heard not to use in on the daggerboard boats. You will have to ask Rick. His seminar video says nothing about that. Roll tack will cut tacks down to 6-10 seconds instead of 30-40. But if you DON'T do the 3-4 feet of main release and more in heavier air you WILL go into irons EVERY time. I learn this the hard way and THAT was the main reason I was at the back of the pack in the beginning. The is no jib to get the hulls around. Buy the book, it is worth it.

Good Luck,

Doug


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