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 Post subject: H17 Mast Rotation Bar
PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 4:27 am 
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I've been looking all over these forums and web to find a detailed explanation of the workings of the H17 Mast Rotation Bar.

Firstly I have a H16/Bravo background so this is new to me.
I'm currently fixing up a dead H17 which has so far been a lot of fun learning lots of new things. I have the Mast Rotation Bar but it appears it has been snapped at one of the joins.

1.) What is it for? So far I understand it can be used during a gibe/tack for mast control and also to tighten the rig which is mostly loose like a h14?? Is that right?
2.) I can try and drill a new hole in the bar I have. Upon affixing it to the mast it will not be straight. Will this be an issue?
3.) I have two clam cleats on the boom (closest to the mast) one top, one bottom. The bottom one works with the outhaul but I'm guessing the top on can be used with this mast rotation bar? Is that correct??

Cheers in advance, Matt

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 5:08 am 
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The mast rotation bar (or limiter) allows you to control the amount of mast rotation and therefore fine tune the entry of the rig to the apparent wind. The amount of mast rotation also impacts how the mast bends. The mast rotation bar does not control rig tension in any way. Unlike the H14 & 16, the H17 does not have any stops in the mast base and the mast is free to rotate. As a general rule, you want to point the limiter so that when sighting through the mast, it is pointed somewhere between the shroud and the rear corner of the aft crossbar for upwind settings. For downwind, you want it pointed at 90 degrees or greater (loosen completely). I would not recommend trying to fix a broken mast rotation bar - you would be much better of to just replace it. The mast rotation control is lead to one of the cleats on the top of the boom (on original H17s the top of the boom had two cleats, one for the downhaul and one for the rotator).

sm


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 11:59 am 
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Matt15 wrote:
I'm currently fixing up a dead H17


This is a noble effort and you deserve a credit for saving another H17 from a dumpster. :mrgreen:

Look into FAQ section of H17 (http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=12779). There is H17 manual which has a picture (kind of bad quality) and rigging description on mast rotation arm. Use the cleat closer to the mast to tie mast rotation line. Then the line goes into the arm and comes back to the cleat. This gives you 1:2 purchase.

This picture shows the rotation arm rigged with upgraded downhaul. This is why you see only one cleat
http://www.hcana.hobieclass.com/site/hobie/image/fullsize/13901.jpg

Image

There a good resource on H17 tuning, including how to use mast rotation:
http://www.hcana.hobieclass.com/site/hobie/hcana/downloads/class%20info/Hobie17/Sweet%2017%20Part%201.pdf
http://www.hcana.hobieclass.com/site/hobie/hcana/downloads/class%20info/Hobie17/Sweet%2017%20Part%202.pdf

Agree with srm, replacing broken rotation arm is right solution.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 6:34 pm 
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Yeah cheers Jack and thanks sm for the replies. Also thanks again for all your previous posts here on the forums. I've been reading thru so many old threads and feel the answers, advice and knowledge is unmeasurable to newbies like myself. =)

A new bar it is! Sounds like lots of workings to play with once I finally hit the water. Can't wait!!
I have looked over so many images and pictures online but only about half of them have that line running from the boom to the rotation bar.
So a 1:2 purchase to the top clam cleat it is. There is only the one as I believe the downhaul is an upgraded one.

Another question - is there an easy way to re line the internal mast outhaul without pulling the end cap off? I can't see one but sometimes my thoughts aren't always outside the box, haha.

Matt

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:10 am 
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Matt15 wrote:
Another question - is there an easy way to re line the internal mast outhaul without pulling the end cap off? I can't see one but sometimes my thoughts aren't always outside the box, haha.

Matt


Mast outhaul? I assume you mean boom outhaul.

The outhaul line ties off with a stopper knot on the top of the boom (look inside the track and you will see a knot) runs to a small block inside the boom which is connected to the outhaul cable, and then runs back forward through the opening in the bottom of the boom and out to the cleat. You would have to try to use the old line as a snake with the new line taped or tied on with twine to pull it through. I think that would be a lot more difficult than just pulling off the end cap, replacing the line, and then re-riveting the cap back on.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 2:44 am 
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Yes sorry I meant boom outhaul.

Sticky tape twine or some type of hook idea sounds like the go. I'll give it ago cheers.

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