I do it all the time, similiar to MMiller, but I added a cleat to the mast (about 2 feet from the bottom on the side opposite of the down haul) to make it easier to tie off.
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| Author: | milton2170 [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 1:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | mast set up |
Hello. I'm going to be setting up my H17 solo for the next few month and need some tips on how to raise and lower the mast by my self. any and all information is wellcome. thank you in advance. Milton. Miami, Fl. |
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| Author: | mmiller [ Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | Mast stepping solo |
The 17 was originally set up with an extra long halyard to use while stepping the mast. Attach the shackle to a bow tang or trailer. Step the mast then pull the halyard tight to hold the mast up. Tie off. Get down off the tramp and secure the forestay. That is the basic way. |
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| Author: | fastcat [ Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I do it all the time, similiar to MMiller, but I added a cleat to the mast (about 2 feet from the bottom on the side opposite of the down haul) to make it easier to tie off.
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| Author: | Dan P. [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 10:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
About ten years ago, I (then a healthy, strong 6' 2" 200lb 33 year old) suffered a serious back injury while stepping my H17 mast. Had to sell the boat, took me out of the sailing game for about seven years. I simply do not hand-step these, ever. Nowadays, to raise it with no strain on my back, I use the trailer's winch through a block located at the top of my trailer's forward mast support column. It is a pain in the ass (a body part I don't use much in sailing) adding about 10 minutes to setup. But it's much safer, and won't kill your back. By the way, you also have to create a way to laterally constrain the mast to keep it from falling off to one side during the first 50-60 degrees. I use the trapeze wires; I extend them both (using a second short cable I made) out to where the bridles anchor on the hull. But doing just that, and nothing else, would do nothing to keep the mast from falling off. Why? Because the trapeze cables would just rise and tram across to the base of the mast as the mast fell. You have to keep the trapeze wire in the general area of the end of the front cross bar. So I created small loops of cable at the ends of the front cross bar. The extended trapeze runs through this loop keeping the trapeze wire from rising or tramming. This method is very sanitary. The mast goes straight up, straight down. The only thing you need to watch is axial mast rotation on the way down. Others will anchor the trapeze wire at just the cross bar, but suffer a lot of mast movement. Too much in my opinion. All this stuff needs to come off the boat for sailing, so the extenders and loops I made are all terminated in quick-release stainless shackles (makes all this stuff quickly installed and removed) Another thing I made is a mast stand. It's like a tri-pod with a mast cradle on top. I put it about 15 feet aft for the mast to rest on while prepping to step. Oh yeah, one more thing. The forces to lift through the first ten degrees are probably around 300-500 lbs (depending on how high your trailer's forward mast support is. To reinforce the mast support, I tie a piece of .250 line from the top of the support down to any fingerly, hook-loopish looking affair down near the trailer hitch. Stuff you make: Trapeze extender cables (2ea) Cross bar loops (2ea) Stuff you have: Winch .250 line (mast support reinforcer) Wouldn't it be great if Hobie sold a 20lb full Carbon Fiber H17 mast? My back can handle that! I'd gladly pay going rate for it. Best, Dan 02 H17/SE/Sport |
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| Author: | milton2170 [ Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
thank you so much for all your replies Milton. |
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