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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 2:16 pm 
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Thank you, I got it. Light dawns on Marble head. I was definitely overthinking this. Thanks so much for entertaining my ignorance to you all. Now that I get the cam positions I expect this will be a whole different experience.

Thanks again!!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:27 am 
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After getting the came operational, when on the trailer it doesnt take much to pull the rudders back and unlock the cam.

Is there a rule of thumb or a force guidance on this?

I am thinking they may have unlocked just from the force of the water at 20 knots


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:46 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
The rule of thumb on cam tension would be that if the rudders are kicking up from sailing load and not from hitting something, then you need to increase the cam tension. If the cam sticks in the down position when you pop the tiller arm up, then it is set too tight or the plate in the upper casting is not properly adjusted or the cam is not properly lubricated.

For lubrication, I recommend that when you have the system apart, take a small dab of bearing grease and place it on the top surface of the plunger and on the plunger contact surface of the cam.

You may even want to bring a large screw driver out on the water with you while you are getting the system dialed in. This way you can adjust the cam tension on the water or pop a stuck cam if necessary.

sm


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 3:40 pm 
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Thanks SRM
If adjustments happens with this white plastic screw had on the underside from the cam, I am having no luck turning it. It seems frozen. Any suggestions for loosening? I am afraid I willstrip it


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 3:44 pm 
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In the Cam FAQ it describes adjustments. It is possible the plate is too far forward which prevents the cam from fully locking. Try that first. Then if the spring adjuster screw is needed... there are a few ways to pull them out for repleacement. Drilling out is one. Melting a large blade screw driver into them is another.

Vise and large tools required for best results.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 4:34 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
First thing to try with the adjustment screw is penetrating oil (WD40 or liquid wrench). However, the fact that it's a white screw means its old because I believe Hobie changed the cam spring screw to black plastic quite a while ago. The way I've been successful removing them is to carefully drill out the screw with a drill just smaller than the minor thread diameter. Then use a hack saw blade (no saw frame, just the blade) to cut four axial slots in the remaining plastic and then use a screw driver to collapse the remaining plastic "shell" of the screw back in on itself. Use a small screwdriver to pick out any remaining bits of plastic and then use a 3/4"-10 bolt with a notch filed in the end to clean up the threads in the casting. Use some antiseize grease when assembling the new screw.

sm


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:30 pm 
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As I am going to trash it anyway how about sinking a hot screwdriver into first to see if that will create enough grab to turn it?
Either waythanks.
Its an 87


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:26 am 
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erw698 wrote:
As I am going to trash it anyway how about sinking a hot screwdriver into first to see if that will create enough grab to turn it?


That could work. Casting in a vise. BIG blade driver. Heated with a torch. Melted into the screw (Delrin gasses are poisonous, so well ventilated area) Grab with vise grips and turn. That is a standard removal technique.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:29 pm 
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
Can someone post the link to Jeremy (of Surf City) and his rudder servicing video?
That's the video which shows how to do what is explained above.

Then service your cams and rudders every winter....

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 1:38 pm 
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Hobie Cat USA


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