Catamaran Sailing From Start to Finish
I take this littany of information and wonder...how much of it is just explaining what I can
adjust and how much of it is what I need
to adjust? In other words, based on my total crew weight and typical
sailing conditions, I will be able to get very close to an optimum setup, except for ranges way below, or above, these conditions. When I do this initially, I eliminate a lot "mind games" in my own head and can concentrate on getting optimum performance at a base
setting and then adjust one thing at a time to guage any differences. Realistically, I'd have to have some pretty sophisticated measurement equipment to notice some difference (even boat-on-boat tuning may be skewed as how do you know things such as sheet tension and crew weight are/were identical?...you don't).
Starting with your first set of adjustables:
A combination of Spreader angle and Diamond wire tension will give your mast pre-bend (and here inject) take Wouters' point about the mast, it's a shortened Tiger mast and will be stiffer, and harder to pre-bend in the major axis. This is what you want to do for a base setting...get enough bend in the mast so the luff curve depth of the sail is close to, or the same as the masts'. Hobie has probably taken in to consideration the stiffer quality of the mast and built less curve in to the Main (comparitively speaking). If your sail and mast prebend are close to the same downhaul will work freely, and give you the on the water adjustment of flattening the sail (and without going in to more on theory, that's enough said here). Diamond wire tension can be loosened or tightened above your base, but since the effect on this shorter mast will be dampened, I think the effects will be dampened as well.
Rotater is an on the water adjustment, pointing somewhere around shroud will be base until heavy air then pointing further aft (up wind). And full off downwind.
Mast rake, Jeremy or Karl can probably give you a base setting for rake. Adjusting one hole either way (for conditions) may
be benificial. On most boats, you find the rake and then leave it alone.
Battens, we touched on this, snug up and then forget it.
Outhaul, Karl touched on this I think, find a base setting upwind and off down, forget it.
Downhaul, your friend upwind to flatten the sail (decrease draft/power) to keep the hull from popping up, downwind off (don't forget to release dowhaul BEFORE turning downwind)
Load (tilt forward or aft)
Toe-in set once and forget, maybe check once or twice a year?
Load (or rake) if it's not close now I'd be surprised. If once you start sailing the boat you got excessive weather or lee helm address in a different post
So OK, we just eliminated six or seven of your "daily" settings, leaving you downhaul and rotator as the only ones to play with. You'll find the right place for the rotator pretty quicky, really only leaving you downhaul to play while your sailing, and as stated in a previous post, unless you have a third arm, or crew, how are you going to adjust/play dowhaul on the water? I'd set it first to remaove all wrinkles from the luff. If in gusty conditions (and still popping a hull) you'll want to pull on more downhaul (and maybe more again), then decrease rotation (if that doesn't solve the popping), and then travel out the main (if that doesn't solve popping).
I despise spending time on the beach trying to tweak my boat for a miniscule difference in performance on the water, especially since for the majority of conditions downhaul, rotator and traveller will take care of it, IF
my base settings are close.