Hobie Cat Forums

I don't get it. the Hobie just doesn't come about in high wind. What am I missing. Coming thru the eye of the wind slow just doesn't make sense but whipping the tiller around gets me to the same place: straight into the wind. Is there something I am missing? Is there a special trick or should I just gybe and pretend everything is normal?

Thanks for your help.

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Tree nuts are not acceptable for hull buoyancy.

Yup you are missing moving forward to make the mast more perpendicular. It makes a great deal of difference how much rake you have, and whether you have a jib. But getting the mast upright gets the centre of effort further forward. I always sheet in through the last bit, but be careful not to have the wind tip you backwards, as the jib backwinds. Also learn how to reverse rudders too.

Actually, if I am in really rough wind, I used to more often gybe. Its easier, even though you need to get the technique right to avoid over stressing everything.

Geoff.

I don't have a jib, but I will remember to move forward. I was gybing yesterday. Any other tips, hints. Is there a way to rig the hiking pole so it can be thrown around to the other side and caught?

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Tree nuts are not acceptable for hull buoyancy.

Sheet out the main before moving to the windward side of the boat.

I know I've gone through this before, but here it is again:

Tacking the 14:
1) Go into the tack with speed. Downspeed tacks are very tough, especially in heavy air.
2) Pick your spot - don't tack in the middle of motorboat wakes. If you're in swell or waves, start your turn as you come up the face of the wave so that you're about head to wind as you crest the wave.
3) Turn smoothly and don't jam the rudders over. As the boat slows down, increase the rudder angle.
4) Do not let go of the tiller or tiller crossbar. The rudders will straighten up and you'll lose it.
5) Let out A LOT of mainsheet once you're head to wind. Sheet in slowly once you're on the new tack. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO DO.
6) If you blow the tack, reverse the rudders, push the boom out and back out of irons.

And finally . . .

PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. It's all a matter of technique. Once you master it, you'll wonder why it was so difficult in the first place.

Thanks for the tips, that's really helpful. I posted this after a bad day's sailing if that shows. I wasn't in a rush to try maneuvers I was uncomfortable with yesterday, so I guess that doesn't help.

waiting for the crest of a wave makes good sense because it obviously reduces the drag in the water.

I just need to snoop around an talk to some local sailors about where I can find an easy prevailing wind to practice in. Dyes inlet where I normally sail is either full on or dead.

Thanks a lot, that was really helpful!

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Tree nuts are not acceptable for hull buoyancy.

Great discussion.

I'm in the market for a H14T. I have a H18 that gets sailed out of Atlantic City, but I want a single hand boat for my local lake in Downingtown, PA. I just don't get enough sailing in with the H18...I always need someone else to drag it down to the water. Which is fine, but I like to sail more than my wife and friends.

So about tacking...any tips for the jib sail and the H14T?

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1982 Hobie 18

Yea, keep it backwinded until you get on the new tack, then switch it. The 14 Turbo is easier to tack than the standard 14.



Marsh Creek I presume...You should also consider the 17 in your search for a good single hander. It is very similar to the 18 in the way it handles, but still pretty easy to manage on the beach. You should also consider bringing your 18 to some of the Division 11 regattas in NJ. We've got plenty of folks to help you drag it down to the water- probably even let you borrow a pair of beach wheels if ya need!

sm

Yup...Marsh Creek. I'm only a 1/2 mile away; on the side where the boats are stored mast up.
One of the problems with my 18 is getting across the lake too fast! It seemed like I was turning around every 2 minutes or so. The look on some peoples face when we go blowing by in the same breeze is priceless. Definitely the fastest boat on the lake.

I'll look into the 17, but I really need something that can be rigged up and on the water quickly all single handed. I also want a boat that's good for younger up and coming skippers. I have two nephews, 11 and 13 that are interested in sailing. And let's not forget price...I have a decent toy collection and the wife will be on me for getting another boat (rightly so)...I'm thinking $1k max. How about the 16? I've never sailed any other Hobie than the 18.

I will definitely attend at least one Div 11 regatta this season. It's a goal of mine.

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1982 Hobie 18

It may be hard to belive, but the 17 really doesn't have many more assembly steps than the 14. If you leave the rudders on, it's really a piece of cake, and was designed to be put together by one person (the mast is about the same weight as the 16). The 17 is a little lighter than the 16 and a lot lighter than the 18. The 14's a fine boat for small folks, but the 17's nice too and offers a bit more performance. On a small lake, maybe it's too much. We sailed our 18 on Lake Nockamixon for many, many years.

Looking forward to seeing some new faces at the races .

sm

Alert - this info from a newbie! We have/had the same (major) problems trying to get the 14 to come about. We added a forestay clip-on jib (of the right size from another boat) and WOWster! She comes right around now - what a difference! Even my kids can do it now (8 + 13 years old). Cheers, -glen

I was looking into making my 14 into a turbo but the price is much to much for me. What boat did you get the clip on jib from. Do you have any pictures of it.

I've been working on converting my H14 to a Turbo. I have another H14 Turbo already and want them to handle similarly.

It's pretty easy to get a H16 jib halyard setup (or Aussie) and and any suitable jib- easier and cheaper than the parts for furling jib ('real' Turbo).

I made a dolphin striker vertical post out of oak(!) because it's what I could shape and fit the front crossbeam profile. It's at least as strong as the Turbo conversion kit, probably more.

I bought some 7x19 ss 1/8" wire rope and swaging supplies to make modified forestay, bridles, trap wires, etc. So I have full control of the length (and condition!) of rigging lines.

I trust my own swaging as much as any manufactured but a nice hydraulic tool would be nice- I use a 36" modified bolt cutter as a crimper.

It's coming together pretty nice with 6:1 blocks converted from older 5:1 multiblock- this helps get the blocks closer to the tramp with more mast rake- though I probably won't need it as much with the jib.

I'll post pics sometime when I find that USB thing for my camera...

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Raise your sail one foot, and you get ten feet of wind.
起你的一只帆，和你10英尺的。 -- Chinese Proverb
William D. Latinette @ Latrobe, PA, USA w. H14 Turbo X 2... wildlatin23@hotmail.com