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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:16 pm 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
So it seems from previous threads that my boat is pre 80's. I'm still messing around with the mast rake. When I have it raked very far back the base is almost not in the step at all. Looks dangerous!

Has the step changed over time to allow for more rake? I've seen some say yes and some say no, so which is it? If I do need to get a new step do I need to get a new base too?

I need a lot of rake as I'm very light and have trouble keeping the leeward bow up even when hiked out fully on the rear corner.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:51 pm 
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The step was changed in 1982 and then again in 2004. Both times to better handle more mast rake.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 5:38 pm 
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Thanks for your help Matt. I'll add it to my growing shopping list that I'm hiding from my wife. 8)
Has the mast base changed too?

My dolphin striker is attached with 4 rivets, and I've noticed that other strikers actually screw into the base of the mast step. Is that only on 16's, or could my dolphin striker be a problem?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 6:35 pm 
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The base was also changed in 2004 to increase the contact surfaces (and a better alignment of the contact) at mast rotation.

We also added a neat feature we call the "Chip Keeper". This is a series of shallow holes in the cup. The chip gets squished down into them and the effect is that the chip is locked into the cup. They don't squirt out or fall out when trailering.

Yes, the stock step casting threads onto the post. Your dolphin striker is an after market kit added on (only on H14s of pre-82 I believe). After 1982 all 14s had strikers and the solid stainless striker post threaded to the step casting as the H16 system is.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:15 am 
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Well if anyone else is in the same situation as I was I'll just add this:

I found that making the shrouds very short for extreme mast rake with my 70's step and base caused a problem due to the mast step link kit.

The base wouldn't go into the step correctly because of the pin. I don't know if this is common with the old steps and bases as I had to drill the holes for the link pin myself so might have done it slightly off, but I did follow the instructions.

After a lot of adjusting and measuring I discovered that to rake the mast with my set up, there is a rake limit where I can connect/remove the mast step link pin. So I swaged my shrouds so that they were in the highest hole on the stay adjusters at the point where it is just possible to engage/disengage the pin.

So you basically have to step the mast first, remove the pin, then adjust for rake by lengthening the forestay via the adjuster and putting the shrouds in the lower holes on the shroud adjusters. When you want to take down the mast you have to adjust back to the least rake again to get the pin in again, pretty annoying as this all takes more time.

Anyway I stepped the mast today at the newer rake setting (pin limit) and didn't bother adding more rake (can you blame me I wanted to get out on the water). I found the boat handled a lot better. I was doing faster reaches and lots of hull flying without worrying about the bows burying. I've still got a few inches between the blocks when sheeted in. I've got the original fiddle 4:1 blocks.

Just tiny adjustments fore and aft with my body weight made big changes in my boats pitch attitude. So I didn't find I needed more rake today.

By the way I don't know what the fuss is about tacking a uni-rig, I was only in irons once or twice today (15 knots) and got out very quickly all my other tacks were smooth and fast. :D


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