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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 10:32 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:39 pm
Posts: 19
I have an ancient Turbo that has sufferd corrosion around the chainplates and one beam has bent quite markedly.

I've tried to locate another (I would like two) beam but any boat being parted out is usually older than mine.

I've straightened the bent beam and have made 5mm plates to wrap around the beam which will be welded on.

My welder is confident it will be fine and my experiaence of welding alloy (I build cars as a hobby) is it will be fine as well.

This way I can feather the weld so it isn't a threat to people on board.

Once done I'll try and post up photos.

I figure the original beams lasted 25 or so years so this should see it go for another 15 or so.

I was going to sell the boat as I purchased a replacement 16 but my 15 year old said it was too much fun sailing solo so I geuss we get to have two Hobies in the family.

Has anyone done a simillar repair?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 4:50 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:05 am
Posts: 33
Location: Cape May, New Jersey
I had the same problem with a 14 that I sold to a friend last year so I replaced the side bar with a Hobie 16 bar that I cut down to fit. Now, I have noticed that my "new 14" which is a 1984 also has a cross bar that is bending. I wish we could change the class rules to bring the side shrouds down to the hull to prevent this problem. I'm not a naval architect but I believe it would stiffen the rig and eliminate this bending since we are now using the single trapeze on the Hobie 14. Anyway, I think that is the easiest solution to find an old 16 crossbar, go see your local Hobie dealer he probably has a small collection of older parts.


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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 12:52 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:39 pm
Posts: 19
In our country a Hobie Dealer wouldnt' give you his Pizza leftovers let alone a boat part!

I had the beams plated and welded.

I figure they've lasted the best part of 30 years so another 10 should be easy.

It cost me $20.00 Aussie or $18.00 US as I had the alloy and made the curved plates to fit.

Finding used Hobie parts in Oz is difficult so I figured it wasn't worth waitng for a side beam to turn up.

I've looked at bracing the beam to the hull and may yet do it as we sail the tail fff this boat.


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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2010 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 1:15 pm
Posts: 168
It is probably going to be easier to just replace the side beams. I have several pairs if you don't want to weld.

On the reinforcing part, I added a support from the hull to the chain plate:

http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=pictures&g2_itemId=17810

I used a bow tang from a Hobie 16 for the upper part and the anchor bolt and rod from a 16 or 17 for the bottom part. I drilled a hole in the lip and then counter sunk the hole so the pin would fit in nicely. I have a hand swager, so I went ahead and swaged it on the boat, but you can use line as well.


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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 3:38 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:39 pm
Posts: 19
Mine are done now.

I'll see how they go next season.

If they look like they're bending I'll try and locate some 16 beams.

I have a16 as well but it still needs the beams.

I've seen your extended shrouds. Cool idea simple and very effective.


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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 3:20 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2007 8:45 pm
Posts: 1656
Location: Northfield Minnesota
What would it take to modify it to the way the new euro H14's are, with the shroud going down to the deck lip like the H16.


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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 4498
Location: Detroit, MI
Karl Brogger wrote:
What would it take to modify it to the way the new euro H14's are, with the shroud going down to the deck lip like the H16.


You'd have to start by reinforcing the deck lip. Old boats aren't built like the new Euro boats.


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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 11:08 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:39 pm
Posts: 19
I think if I spread the load over a 4" section of deck flange and shared the load with the beams it would be heaps stronger than when new.

I have everything I need to run the chainplate down to the deck flange and will probably end up doing it as we tend to sail it very hard.

I'm quite surprised the mast didn't come down during the season as on beam has a crack over 2" long in it running under the chainplate.


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