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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 4:27 pm
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Location: Central Oregon
I have an old Hobie 14. Original style rudders.
I have re-done all the pivots etc.
What I am wondering is to trailer the boat I have to pull the rudders off. This is a real PITA when they crossbar and tillers are all bolted together as one.
Is there any reason not to drill out the rivets at the end of the cross bar and replace them with a pin/ringding so I can break the rudder system down into 3 peices easily? Am I missing something here???? Taking the rudders on and off when its all hooked together is not gonna work well. :shock:

Pic of what I am talking about circled in red!
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And a pic of the old girl awaiting a tramp and a lil epoxy love
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1980 H16


Last edited by hobiesrock on Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
You don't have to take the rudders off to trailer, but you do need to put them up (crossbar under the mast) and tie them up (tied from the tiller/crossbar joints to the pylons. Don't tie the crossbar in the middle - you'll just bend it. You need to take the tiller extension off.

For long-distance trailering, it's best to take the rudders off to reduce vibration/wear. Most of the road warriors use the Hobie 20-style tiller connectors. They're much better mechanically than the stock connectors and they come apart with just a simple clip.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 9:09 pm 
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Location: Central Oregon
I dont really like the idea of having the rudders bouncing on the back of the old girl while towing. She is not in the greatest of shape and I would think that would add a lot of wear and tear to the transoms and the rudder hinge pin holes.
Is there any reason I should not drill out those rivets/replace with pins, so I can break down the rudder assembly easy? Guess those joints might be sloppy without some tight rivets in them? Hmmm dangit I saw those upgrade/adjustable connectors too while I was shopping for parts.

edit: now I know why I stuck with the stock style! $137 that is $137 more than the boat/trailer cost me! :lol:

What about replacing the ends with just these???
http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc ... _Code=C-RC
Look like they have an adjustable push button that would allow the crossbar to come off? or is that just a screw...hard to tell in the pic

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:02 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
If you tie the rudders up properly (i.e., solid and tight) there's no issue with wear on the hulls or rudders. Tie the tiller arms tight so the rudders can't bounce or move around at all. The worst that will happen is you'll have to replace the rudder pin bushings every couple years, but that's a lot better than messing around with installing and removing the whole system each time you sail. If you had a nice set of EPO or racing rudders on the boat, it might be a different story, but for an old boat with plastic rudders, just leave 'em on.

Quote:
What about replacing the ends with just these???


Those are adjustable tiller end caps. They allow you to adjust the rudder toe-in. They are not intended to be removed everytime you sail.

If you really wan to take the rudders off each time you trailer, the H20 system is the easiest, but it will cost you some coin and really isn't worth the expense on an old boat.

sm


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 Post subject: rudder questions
PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 3:17 pm 
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Location: Central Oregon
Thanks gents! No bushings in my rudding castings...thats next on my list of crap to order got all the slop out but that. Sounds like I have to drill the holes slightly oversize to fit the bushings...
This is what I am gonna order up unless someone stops me! :lol:
http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc ... _Code=C-RC

Im assuming that these are the same bushings as this (minus the aluminum pins)
http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc ... re_Code=MS
says to use a reamer...dont have one of those! Can I get away with a drillpress?

Appreciate the hobie help!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:21 am 
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Location: Central Oregon
hmm guess there is no such thing as an original idea! :lol:
http://users.tpg.com.au/kkmiller/hobie/tiller.html

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 4:27 pm
Posts: 576
Location: Central Oregon
Been plugging away...fixed the soft spot on rear deck, got old #'s off the hulls, new used tramp, all new standing rigging/running rigging.
Need to do a lil epoxy work at the hull seam in a couple spots next warm day when I can flip it over in the grass.
Hope it will be ready to get wet about the time my drysuit gets back from Kokatat. Its still EARLY spring here in the Cascades!
This started off as a free Hobie last fall...not free anymore! :lol:
Ohh ya its not a Turbo...just has a Turbo Tramp, and it came with an uninstalled dolphin striker and trap setup. Anyone with the rest of the stuff laying around they wanna offload (cheap) lemme know! :D

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