Thanks for the responses, I had figured as much on the cam question. I wouldn't mind sticking with the "old school" traveler setup. It seems to move very smoothly, and right now my motto is "if it's not broken, don't fix it". I just went outside (right before I started this sentence) and had a good long look-see at the setup, and I believe I get it. Researching now, I see the real name for the little v-cut line cleat/cam things on the aft corners of the frame are v-jams.
I'm pretty sure I've got a good enough idea of how the system works.The windward traveler line locks into the windward v-jam, holding the traveler in place, allowing the mainsheet to be trimmed. I think for now I'm totally cool with this setup (have an attraction to vintage systems).
I've never seen such a system for the traveler- Can you still post pics?
Separately cleating the traveler seems like a bit much versus just flipping a line to release the center camcleat (newer parts)- but you can get used to anything...
I do however, need assistance in picking out the proper block and locking cam set up. This category on an eBay store seems likely to have the proper combination in there somewhere, but I have no clue what I really need. http://stores.ebay.com/NAUTICA-WEB-STOR ... 513&_pgn=1
I know it will have to have the locking cam cleat on the lower block, but I don't know how many pulley wheels I need in the system. This particular setup caught my eye, but if there's a better or similar combination of parts available for less, then I'd rather go with that. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAINSYSTEM-BLOC ... 636wt_1163
The latter resemble the older (Seaway?) 4:1 fiddle block systems which require a pretty high clearance between the boom and traveler area and thus less mast tilt. Most newer blocks have 3 sheaves top and bottom and are thus 6:1. Notice how much closer the blocks can be tightened together...
But 4:1 may work for some people on a H14... They certainly did sometime in the past. Also, if you search here you can find a way that people have bolted together these older block styles to make triple-sheave blocks- I did that and it works fine.
Also (and I really don't mean to keep dragging this post out) what sort of line can I use for my lines? The chalky stubs on there now seem to be almost like sash cord, but with more polyester in the core. What does the load strength have to be for the traveler lines? Halyard? (can't be that much for that one right?) Mainsheet? Righting line? And any others you can think of that I'm missing leaving out. What type of line is best?
My apologies for all the questions at once, but I'd really like to get everything ordered right now while my trampoline is being made, so I'm not waiting on a piece of stupid line, or even worse the blocks. Thanks so much!
I'd say from experience that eBay
is your friend as far as lines... Somewhere here if you search the forums you can find guidelines as to length and diameter of these lines but I find that one can never have too much 'rope' around and the prices for dacron or the newer MFP lines (soft, flexible, and float) are cheap enough to buy a few size pieces and see what you like. It's heresy to some but you can even find usable cordage at Lowes... (I have).