HC14 issues...

Hi HC14 Friends

1. My mast is starting to over-rotate ,so is the best solution to instal a mast rotator?does anyone have pics.?

2. After putting on a 6 batten sail and filing off the "hook "on the mast
for more rake ,i get a lot of weather helm..so i nee to re-drill the rudders .
since the boat dont have adjustable upper rudder arms.
how do i do it ?
3. do you go for block to block trim like on the HC16?

kind regards Flemse (Denmark)

I used the stainless steel bolts used to assemble the frame, cut back some of the worn aluminum, tapped two holes on the lower casting on the frame, and after bolting it in hard, cut off the bolts. This has worked for over 20 years. At worst you just fit a new casting to the mast bottom, which is cheaper than the other casting. But I never needed to do that. The steel bolts found plenty of purchase.



I never needed to remove mine, and I used plenty of rake. In fact the mast I now use has no piece there which makes raising or lowering the mast on your own just a bit more difficult.



I have a five to one, and its not block to block. I assume you mean the sheets? You must have an unbelievable amount of rake? Do you have the turbo jib?

Geoff.

Thanks for your advise Geoff.
I think the problem is that the mast base has been changed over the years .
i will by a new one +a new mast bottom pies.
i hope it will work better with the brand new rig and sail.
what about redrilling - do you know how?
This baby has to be ready for european champingnionship in 4 weeks!

If you are racing, then don't replace the mast base / step. Get a rotator.

Read Bob Curry's tuning guide for the 14 here:http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=pictures&g2_itemId=11193

Racing mast rake is extreme. You can go block-to-block just like the 16's:


Note how slack the leeward shroud is and that the tail of the halyard is used to secure the mast down to the mast step. (Photo is of Bill Jeffers, 3-time North American Champion.)

Most of the racing 14's in the US have the rake-adjustable castings that were introduced in the early 80's. With the older castings, it's a matter of trial and error. Fill the bolt holes in the rudder, then drill the lower casting hole about 3 mm forward of its former location. Install the rudder in the lower casing and place the tiller arm in the fully locked down position (cam locked down, and the castings mated together). Make sure the lock-down pin is firmly seated back against the cam, and mark the bolt hole. Drill the hole (drill press) and reassemble / test the action.

If you're lucky, you'll get it right the first time.

Thanks for you help MBound .

Regarding the lower drill-hole. Do you mean 3mm from old hole-center to new hole- center? or is it 3mm between etch hole-side ?

This Hobie14 is originally from Brazil ,but ended up i Denmark ,i restored it
and the young sailors in my club loves it ! much more simple then the HC16 spi that they already sail.. and a lot of fun to.

Flemse

Center to center. The holes will overlap slightly.