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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2004 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 12:39 pm
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How tight should the dolphin striker be on my H20 and how do I tighten it?

thanks,

Bill in VT


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2004 7:41 pm 
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Location: Boulder City,NV
I've heard that it is nearly impossible to adjust once assembled. Look in the front cross bar and you'll see a compression tube in front of the nut that tightens the striker rod. I thought that you could adjust the main mast step rod lower to tighten the assembly but mine was frozen with corrosion so I sail with it as it is. Tucker H20 Berserker


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 Post subject: Adjustment?
PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2004 5:45 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Easiest to adjust the post down, if possible.

The correct adjustment would be to give the crossbar a very slight bow upwards. Just enough to actually see it when sighting across from side to side. Just not flat/straight, to be sure there IS tension.

As mentioned above, they do get corrosion inside the crossbar that may prohibit adjustment. There is a compression sleeve around the striker post and it can fuse to the striker with corrosion.

Other than setting the post lower which could also be too low and cause the mast base to scratch the crossbar when stepping, you can get at the striker rod adjustments by taking the boat apart. Removing the crossbar end caps and bolt compression sleeves. PITA, but that is how you access them.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2004 4:32 pm 
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Thanks for the info. Maybe I'll look at it in the spring. Mine seems to be pretty loose and that's why I aksed. I can rattle it back and forth by hand.

On a differnent subject, I've heard of Hull failures on early (mid?) 90s H20s due to a mfg problem with that vintage. I have a 94, sail # 446. should I be concerned?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 9:06 am 
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Location: Clear Lake Iowa
Yea, me too! Sail #486
Hope there is not a problem!!


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 Post subject: H20 Problem
PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 11:27 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
The problem back then was in the "post finish" stage. After they glue on the decks they go back to fair the seam and spray with gel coat. The seam runs all around the hull just below the deck, maybe a 1/2" down. If the guys sanded too much material off, it could make it thinner and more flexible to the point where it could crack if really bad. Keep an eye on the seam. Especially around the crossbars. If cracks apprear you will have to cut an access then glass from the inside to bond the deck solidly to the hull again.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 5:43 pm 
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OK, spring should be around the corner here in Vermont ( though we're expecting 6-12 inches of snow tonight and tomorrow). So it's time to start planning what repairs I should attempt between the time when the snow if off the H20 and the ice is off the lake.

It sounds like I should get some glass on the inside of my hulls where the deck meets the hull. I'm thinking of installing inspection ports either infront of or behind the front cross bar then laying some glass along the seams for and aft of the front crossbar.

Do I have the right idea?

Is there a bulkhead in this area I need to be aware of?


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 Post subject: Bulkhead
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 6:12 pm 
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There is a bulkhead directly below the crossbar. If you cut an inspection port in the deck, you may be able to also cut a hole in the bulkhead, reach through and glass just in front of it. Actually a hole in the side (inboard) might be easier than that. Directly over the bulkhead to give acces fore and aft. More gel work though.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 6:56 pm 
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Matt, thanks for the quick reply. Is the bulkhead basically a vertical wall that splits the hull fore and aft at the crossbar? So I won't be able to access aft of the crossbar from a port infront of the crossbar ? I really don't want to go through the side of the hull if I can avoid it.


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