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 Post subject: Replacing main traveler
PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2004 12:31 pm
Posts: 88
Location: Redlands, Ca
I recently purchased an older hobie (74) to replace my worn (79) its in better condition and looks a lot sharper.

Ive noticed alot of upgrades from my old boat that arent on the 74 such as...

The main traveler, its plastic, not on rollers and sized for the old main sheet system. I have a nicer traveler in my 79 that I want to swap out, how do i do this? Do I have to take the rivets out of the track? Ive heard alot of greif about doing that.. is there an easier way?

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 3:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2004 9:32 pm
Posts: 198
Location: West Texas
I replaced my traveler just a few weeks ago. You have to drill 3 rivets from one side of the track to bend it up enough to slide the traveler in or out.

I ordered new counter-sunk rivets from Murray's, and got a bunch of little washers to slide over the "nail" portion since my rivet gun wouldn't go into the track. (The washers bring the "head" of the rivet up out of the track.)

Anyway, it was pretty easy.

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Warm regards,

Jim

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"A little crazy but with big balls."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2004 12:31 pm
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Location: Redlands, Ca
Thanks, Im gonna try it this weekend!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 6:11 pm 
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Authorized Hobie Dealer

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 7:35 pm
Posts: 1370
Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
Be careful using the rivets from Murrays. We used some on out last job and they did not work very well, they did not seat as flush as they should have and ended up tearing the traveler car up again, make sure they are counter sunk and they counter sink. We have never had a problem with the ones from Hobie. Just my 2 cents worth


Thanks,
Brad Stephens
www.sunjammers.com
Authorized Hobie/Vanguard Dealer
Hobie Division 15 Chairman
info@sunjammers.com
850-235-2281
Panama City Beach, FL


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2004 9:32 pm
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Location: West Texas
Interesting point. Mine didn't "counter sink" quite as much as I would have liked, but I figured it should be okay because it's fairly close to the edge. You think I should replace them?

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Jim

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"A little crazy but with big balls."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 5:24 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 4623
Location: Detroit, MI
The trick on replacing traveller track rivets is two-fold:

1) Make sure the track is held down tightly to the crossbar. This can be a simple as tightly wrapping a piece of line around the crossbar / track assembly. The rivets will not pull the track down.

2) The nose of the rivet gun has to seat firmly on the top of the rivet, which in turn, has to be firmly seated in the countersink. Most rivet guns will not fit into the track, so you can either stack washers on the tail of the rivet (OK) or modify the nose of the rivet gun to fit in the track (best).

A preventative measure is to deepen the countersink in the track a little (emphasis on "a little") before setting the rivets. That will ensure the rivet heads are below the bottom of the track.

After the fact, you can grind down the protruding rivet heads with a Dremel tool. Just be careful. Aluminum (track) is way softer than stainless steel (rivets).

Jim, you're right that you don't have to worry too much about the rivets on the end. Until you jibe in heavy air and the traveller hangs up on a rivet head - on the wrong side of the boat! :twisted:

(that's happened to me on my 17 and the result was an unexpected swim)


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 Post subject: Rivets at end of track
PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 9133
Location: Oceanside, California
Reality is that the car should be prevented from reaching the end of the track to prevent damage from hitting the casting. That is normally done by tieing a knot in the traveler line as a limiter. The car position rarely would be more than about 3/4 out for best performance anyway, so maybe it is not a real problem and not worth drilling and replacing.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:24 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2004 9:32 pm
Posts: 198
Location: West Texas
Good to know, Matt. Thanks!

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Jim

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"A little crazy but with big balls."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2004 12:31 pm
Posts: 88
Location: Redlands, Ca
I finally got around to replacing the main traveler from the old plastic to the newer bering and metal. It went easier than expected, I had some problems with the rivet tool but I ebayed a good one for 60 bucks and it worked with no problems! The rivets didnt counter sink like i wanted them too but I took a metal spacer and hammered them down some more and the are near flush, the traveler doesnt hang up at all...

Thanks for all your input!


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