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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:58 pm
Posts: 93
Location: Shelter Island, NY
I have a very old H14 which is on the beach and can't easily be transported. The starboard hull has a leak somewhere and takes on about two gallons in a 30 minute sail. The underside of the hull is pretty worn away from dragging up and down the beach, and there is a 18" longitudinal crack right along the pointed/angled part of the hull where it meets the sand. But I'm not sure if that crack goes all the way through or not.

So . . . my questions . . . assuming that the H14 stays on the beach

1. How do I work out where the leak is?
2. If I want to do a repair on the beach, what is the simplest way to go about it. My aim is simply to be able to sail the rest of the season without one hull sinking on a longer sail. I don't care about how it looks or getting perfect hydrodynamics. If it stays dry and doesn't fall apart I am happy.

I am a total beginner at this. I have never repaired a hull in my life, and I have never worked with fiberglass in my life. I'd really appreciate whatever help you can offer "for idiots". What tools and materials I would need, and exactly step-by-step how I would patch this.

I looked at some other posts (below), but couldn't see anything dealing with doing the repair on the beach.
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=9128&hilit=hull
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=12037&hilit=beach
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10126&p=52764&hilit=beach#p52764
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=1654&hilit=+beach

Thanks everyone.
p.s. I am also posting on how to tighten up the sidestays/shrouds while on the beach

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 6:39 am
Posts: 471
Location: Finger Lakes, NY
doing it on the beach (repairs that is :)) is no different than doing it in the garage except that you get a better tan.
Before the season started we used to apply two layers of f-glass to the keels. We laid out 3 inch wide strips the entire length of the keel and applied resin. Just after the first layer cured we applied the second layer.
Buy a fiberglass repair kit with cloth from your local auto repair place. Buy more cloth - available separately. The basic kit has enough resin to do two hulls if they're not too bad. You need SHARP scissors to cut the glass with a minimum of loose strands
Buy a set of "sureform' files and some 100 grit sandpaper, some 2 inch wide masking tape, a couple of throw away bristle paint brushes (4 if you are doing two layer on each hull and a Sunday paper
Flip the boat over - (assuming mast is down :0)
Use the masking tape and news paper to protect the hull from drips and "define" the area that you want to repair.
Cut 3 to 4 inch wide strips of cloth to cover the repair area.
Follow the instructions on the resin to mix- it is better to put too little hardener in than too much- it changes VERY quickly. Less hardener gives you more working time - too much less hardener makes the repair soft. Be a baby bear and make it "just right".
QUICKLY brush a thin layer of resin over the damaged area using the bristle brush.
QUICKLY place the cloth onto the resin and work into place with the spreader that came with the kit. Gently, but firmly - too much pressure shreds the cloth. Go one direction and do NOT go over where you have just been. Stand back. Crack a cold one. Do the other hull.
When this layer is cool and hard to the touch you can apply a second layer.
File and shape with Sureform files and sandpaper.
Crack another cold one - go sailing...

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:59 am 
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When this layer is cool and hard to the touch you can apply a second layer.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 5:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 27, 2010 12:23 pm
Posts: 45
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Hi Paris
Did you do this repair? Did it work out?
My boat is on the beach in Brooklyn with no trailer. I'm looking at doing the same thing.
thanks a lot
frank

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 10:04 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2004 7:20 pm
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Location: Shreveport, LA
Just out of curiosity, why do you let the first layer cure before adding the second?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:23 am
Posts: 564
Location: Lake Norman NC
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 6:09 am 
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Joined: Sat May 10, 2008 8:15 pm
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Location: Washington DC/Chesapeake Bay
Good stuff guys, thanks.

Hey widerisbetter, I don't think I see you mention when you pull the tape off. A minor step I know, but with the resin hardening so quickly when do you know the time is right in order to get the edge you want without leaving tape underneath?

Thanks in advance!

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